Face to Face with a Legend, Super Tusker-Craig (Day 6)
Waking up in Amboseli is like stepping into a living postcard. Our first full day in this famed “Land of Giants” began early, as safari days often do. At 6 a.m., we met Moses in the lodge lobby, eager-eyed and ready for adventure, with steaming cups of coffee in hand to chase away the early morning chill. Our game plan was ambitious yet perfectly paced: three game drives each day during our stay. Dawn drives and evening outings would focus on big game, taking advantage of the cooler hours when animals are most active, while the mid-morning drive would lean toward birdwatching and the smaller wonders of Amboseli’s rich ecosystems. With our plan set and spirits high, we left the lodge just as the first rays of sun painted the sky with magnificent hues of pink, orange, and gold. The early morning light always adds a layer of magic to the savannah, and today was no exception.
Almost immediately, we spotted a small pride of lions—one majestic male and two lionesses—feasting on a hippo carcass. Behind one lioness, three cubs, about three months old, tumbled and played with youthful exuberance. We had always dreamed of witnessing lion cubs in the wild, to see how these tiny future kings and queens of the savannah learn their craft. Their “roars” were more like adorable little caws, and watching them stumble and bound across the earth on their wobbly legs was utterly captivating.
The adults took turns guarding and feeding on the tough hippo meat, their jaws crunching audibly through thick flesh—a harsh yet fascinating spectacle. Meanwhile, the cubs darted around, full of curiosity and boundless energy. At one point, the male lion crossed the road right in front of our jeep, and the cubs followed, tumbling behind like little shadows. The mother lioness soon noticed their wandering and crossed to the other side, issuing a sharp scolding. The cubs scampered immediately back to her, nestling close and suckling—a tender, heart-melting moment that made us feel privileged to witness such intimate family bonds. We lingered with the lion pride for a couple of hours, soaking up every moment as the sun climbed higher and warmed the earth. Eventually, it was time to return to Ol Tukai Lodge for a well-earned breakfast. On the drive back, Moses shared some exciting news. He had been in touch with a Masai guide who might know the whereabouts of Craig—the largest of the remaining super tuskers in Amboseli. He promised to call if Craig was spotted nearby.
For those new to the term, a “super tusker” is an elephant with extraordinary tusks—massive in length and girth, sometimes weighing over 100 pounds each. These giants are rare jewels of the African wilderness, symbols of strength and resilience, but sadly, also a reminder of conservation challenges. Their tusks serve important roles: foraging, digging water holes, defending territory, and signaling dominance. To see a super tusker is to witness a living legend, a true icon of Amboseli’s wild heart.
Our mid-morning game drive shifted focus to the skies and wetlands, where birdlife flourishes. Over the course of a couple of miles, we recorded over 35 species—a birdwatcher’s delight. From a distance, the regal African fish eagle soared and called, its sharp cry echoing over the plains. We admired goliath and gray herons stalking along the water’s edge, and marveled at numerous squacco herons blending perfectly into the reeds.
The wetlands teemed with African jacanas, their long toes dancing effortlessly atop lily pads, while lapwings, plovers, stilts, larks, teals, and ducks filled the air and ground with color and song. Photographically, the African spoonbill was a standout, its stark white feathers contrasting beautifully against the shimmering water. We also captured portraits of the elegant gray crowned cranes, whose distinctive crests added an exotic flair to our photo collection. Back at the lodge gate, a juvenile martial eagle perched majestically, watching the world with piercing eyes—a perfect end to our birding adventure.
During lunch, Moses received the long-awaited call: Craig had been sighted. At 1 p.m., we met up with Moses again, ready to leave the park boundaries and venture into the Tawi Conservancy—a private sanctuary just outside Amboseli. Tawi Conservancy spans roughly 12,000 hectares in Kenya’s Southern Rift Valley. It’s a vital refuge for elephants, lions, giraffes, and countless bird species, preserving wild landscapes while fostering sustainable tourism and positive relationships with the Maasai communities nearby. Its open savannahs and rugged hills offer a quieter, more intimate safari experience.
We hit the dusty road, the jeep kicking up a long trail of red earth as Moses pressed on. About 40 minutes later, we arrived at Kimana Gate, the official boundary of Amboseli National Park. Here we picked up our Maasai guide, who knew Craig’s habits intimately. A short 15-minute off-road drive through the conservancy and then, suddenly—there he was. Craig!
At 51 years old, this magnificent bull stood like a living monument. His colossal tusks swept the ground as he plucked grass, placing each blade into his mouth with the deliberate patience of an ancient king. We were speechless. The sheer scale of his frame, the grandeur of those tusks, and the calm dignity in his gaze—all combined for a jaw-dropping moment.
Not far from him was another large tusker, a companion in their serene afternoon. Our jeep circled the pair several times as cameras clicked endlessly. At one point, Craig came so close that grass from his trunk gently fell onto our arms—a tactile connection to a creature that seemed almost mythical. Craig is one of the last great super tuskers of Amboseli, revered for his sweeping, curved tusks and massive bulk. These elephants, rare and majestic, weigh heavily on the hearts of conservationists who recognize their vulnerability. Craig symbolizes Amboseli’s conservation triumphs and ongoing challenges. His predecessor and close friend, Big Tim, was also a super tusker beloved across southern Kenya’s grasslands. Big Tim’s gentle nature and immense tusks made him a legend, but tragedy struck in 2020 when he died from a twisted gut after raiding a farmer’s tomato crop. This heartbreaking event underscores the delicate balance between wildlife and human communities—a balance Amboseli and its neighbors continue striving to maintain. Craig carries on Big Tim’s legacy, inspiring hope for the future of these magnificent giants. As we basked in the glow of our encounter with Craig, news came through of another incredible sighting nearby—a family of cheetahs. Four sub-adult brothers, accompanied by their mother who was gently encouraging them to become independent, had been spotted.
We diverted to see the cheetahs, eager for a glimpse of the smallest of Africa’s big cats. Within minutes, we found the brothers playfully climbing termite mounds, following their mother’s watchful gaze. Motherly love was on full display as she nudged and tested their independence, and the brothers basked lazily in the shade, their sleek coats gleaming in the golden afternoon sun.
Watching their playful games of hide-and-seek among wildflowers, the calm and joy of the scene was intoxicating. With only a few jeeps present, we enjoyed an unhurried, intimate experience—a precious rarity in today’s busy safari circuits. Reluctantly, we left the cheetahs to return to Craig for a final moment in his company before the day ended. As the clock ticked toward 6 p.m., we prepared to leave the park and cross the gates by 6:30 p.m., as per regulations.
The drive back was nothing short of spectacular. The sky transformed into a pink canvas, reflecting off hundreds of flamingos gathered in the shallow lakes—a breathtaking spectacle of color and life. Returning to Ol Tukai Lodge, we settled into the warm ambiance with a refreshing drink—perhaps a Dawa or two—to toast the day’s unforgettable moments. Our cottage became a quiet sanctuary for downloading photos, backing up memories, and reminiscing about a day filled with wildlife wonders and emotional connections to the wild.
