Exploring the wonders of Amboseli and the search for the perfect picture (Day 7)
Another dawn. Another drive. Our last full day at Amboseli National Park began just as beautifully as the previous ones—with a spectacular sunrise painting the vast African sky in a palette of pinks, oranges, and deep magentas. It was one of those moments every landscape and wildlife photographer dreams of: the perfect light, the perfect scene, a flawless fusion of nature’s finest elements. The golden hour glow stretched across the endless plains, casting long shadows and lighting up the acacia trees in the distance, all beneath the majestic backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro, its peak slowly revealing itself through wisps of lingering clouds.
Eager to make the most of the morning, we decided to revisit yesterday’s hippo kill site, curious if the lion pride was still lingering. Luck was on our side. Just as the sun began its slow climb, two regal lionesses were busy feeding from the remains of their kill, while the same three playful cubs from the day before frolicked nearby. The cubs’ carefree energy was infectious as they chased each other around, occasionally darting towards our jeep with wide-eyed curiosity before their mother gently corralled them back. As the sun rose higher, the cubs scampered off, chased by their mother in a tender display of maternal guidance. They ambled along the roadside, slipping under culverts and tumbling playfully in the tall grasses. We followed them slowly, careful not to disturb their natural rhythm, utterly mesmerized by their innocent antics. Watching these young lions exploring their world—sometimes boldly approaching the vehicles, other times hiding behind bushes—felt like being privy to an intimate wildlife documentary unfolding live before us. All the while, Kilimanjaro’s snow-capped peak began to shine brightly behind the clouds, the ultimate symbol of this extraordinary place.
Once the lion cubs had wandered safely out of sight, we turned our attention to the quest for the iconic shot: a majestic herd of elephants framed by the towering silhouette of Kilimanjaro. We drove steadily along the main road toward mile marker 42, eyes peeled for the familiar shapes of the pachyderms. Soon enough, a large herd appeared on the horizon, making their way towards us with the slow, deliberate grace elephants are known for. Heart pounding with anticipation, we waited for the perfect moment, the elephants inching closer with each step. But just as the frame seemed set, they veered unexpectedly away from the mountain’s face, taking a sharp left. Not to be deterred, we quickly repositioned the jeep to the opposite side of the road to capture the famed Kilimanjaro-elephant tableau—but alas, clouds had gathered, veiling the mountain’s peak once more.
This fleeting moment perfectly encapsulated the essence of wildlife photography—the beautiful unpredictability that social media posts rarely reveal. Behind every iconic shot lies hours of patient waiting, endless repositioning, and a little bit of luck. There’s no guarantee, just the hope that nature will align with your vision. After this bittersweet encounter, we headed back to the lodge for a leisurely breakfast, savoring the quiet luxury of a full meal before embarking on our next adventure—a two-hour birdwatching safari through Amboseli’s remarkable wetlands. One of the best perks of traveling in shoulder season is the relative solitude, and today was no exception. We had the entire game drive vehicle to ourselves, allowing us to tailor the experience exactly as we wished. It was the perfect opportunity to explore the abundant water bodies that weave through the park, creating a haven for a stunning array of shore and water birds.
Late morning in Amboseli’s wetlands is a magical time for birdwatching. The myriad ponds and lakes scattered across the landscape lie still and glass-like, their surfaces reflecting the soft, partly cloudy blue sky in perfect clarity. The water becomes a giant mirror, doubling the beauty of the scene—the ripples of birds skimming the surface, the cloud patches drifting overhead, and the brilliant sun breaking through just enough to spotlight the birds.
Along the edges of these tranquil water bodies, several species of herons stand like statues, perfectly poised and focused. Goliath herons, the tallest of their kind in Africa, tower majestically, their rusty red necks and slate-gray wings casting impressive shadows on the water. Nearby, Squacco herons with their creamy plumage and black-tipped wings stealthily stalk the shallows, while Black-headed and Grey herons maintain a calm vigil, their slender necks slowly craning forward as they hunt for fish with patient precision.
Kingfishers add vibrant splashes of color to the scene. The Grey-headed Kingfisher, with its striking blue wings and contrasting reddish-brown head, perches motionless on low branches, eyes sharp for any sign of movement beneath the surface. The Malachite Kingfisher dazzles with iridescent turquoise plumage, a tiny jewel flashing against the reeds. And the Pied Kingfisher, black and white and ever so alert, hovers briefly above the water before plunging down in a swift, spectacular dive to catch a meal.
In the distance, flocks of both Greater and Lesser Flamingos congregate in the shallow lagoons, their delicate pink feathers a soft contrast to the blue reflections on the water. Seeing the two species side by side brings a new appreciation for their differences—the Greater Flamingo’s longer neck and pale blush hues beside the Lesser’s shorter stature and brighter pink tones create a dynamic, living mosaic of color and form. Watching them filter-feed in unison, their curved beaks skimming the water, feels like witnessing a slow-motion dance choreographed by nature itself. The air here is filled with a symphony of bird calls—a chorus of whistles, chirps, and trills that adds a soundtrack to this tranquil scene. Occasionally, a gentle breeze sweeps across the wetlands, sending soft ripples through the mirrored water, distorting the perfect reflections. Beyond the herons and kingfishers, other fascinating birds make their home here. African Jacanas, walk gracefully atop floating vegetation, their long toes distributing their weight to avoid sinking on lily pads and reeds. They pause now and then to probe the water’s surface for insects. Little Grebes bob quietly near the water’s edge, their small, rounded bodies dipping and surfacing like living buoys. The striking Saddle-billed Stork commands attention with its towering stature and vibrant red and yellow bill, striding confidently through the shallows as it hunts.
High above, the unmistakable silhouette of the African Fish Eagle perches on tall branches, its raucous call echoing powerfully over the wetlands, a bold reminder of its dominance in this watery realm. Reed cormorants nestle among the dense reeds, their glossy black feathers catching flashes of sunlight as they prepare to dive for fish. Secretive warblers flit through the vegetation, their tiny forms often glimpsed only by the quick movement of leaves or the soft rustle of reeds. The hours slipped by effortlessly as we immersed ourselves in this living tapestry of colors and sounds. The birdwatching safari was a welcome contrast to the larger wildlife encounters of the morning—intimate, detailed, and endlessly fascinating in its variety. This quieter side of Amboseli offered a deeper appreciation for the rich biodiversity of the park, reminding us that every creature, no matter how small, plays a vital role in this ecosystem.
Returning to the lodge, we enjoyed a sumptuous lunch, recharging before our final game drive in Kenya for this year. The afternoon air was warm but gentle, and as we set off once again, hopes were high for one last breathtaking encounter with Amboseli’s famed wildlife.
Our afternoon drive proved to be another magnificent experience, filled with the quiet excitement that accompanies every moment spent in such an iconic landscape. In our minds, the dream lingered—to capture that elusive image of a great tusker elephant standing proudly in front of Mount Kilimanjaro, bathed in the golden hues of the setting sun. It seemed today might be the day. The clouds that had lingered over Kili in the morning were beginning to dissipate, revealing more and more of the mountain’s bright, snow-capped peak.
We followed two elephant herds, moving carefully and patiently, hoping the timing would align perfectly. As we drove through the park’s dusty tracks, the elephants grazed on fresh green grass, their massive forms casting long shadows in the soft afternoon light. Occasionally, a curious calf would pause and glance toward our vehicle, eyes wide and unafraid.
Time was slipping away faster than we wanted, and though the elephants crossed the road and positioned themselves near the mountain, the clarity we desired—when both Kili’s peak and the herd would be visible in the same frame—remained elusive. But such is the nature of wildlife photography and safari life: moments come and go, sometimes gifting you magic, other times offering lessons in patience and acceptance.
What stayed with us was the sheer joy of being there, watching the elephants move with gentle authority, surrounded by the vastness of Amboseli and the grandeur of Kilimanjaro looming above. These were moments of connection—to the land, the animals, and to ourselves—that no photograph can fully capture.
As the sun dipped lower, casting a warm, golden glow over the plains, we reluctantly made our way back to the lodge, our hearts full despite the bittersweet knowledge that we would be leaving the next day. Amboseli had claimed a piece of our souls, its wild beauty and vibrant life forever etched in our memories.
In the end, this last day was a perfect blend of everything that makes Amboseli special: raw wildlife encounters, breathtaking landscapes, the thrill of the chase for that perfect shot, and moments of quiet reflection by the shimmering wetlands alive with birdlife. It was a reminder that in the world of safari, it’s not just about the pictures you take but the stories you live, the moments you share, and the awe that nature inspires in every wandering heart.