Exploring Nairobi (Day 8)
The next morning dawned clear and crisp as is generally the case on the day of departure .As we prepared for our flight back to Nairobi’s Wilson Airport. It was just 8 a.m., and the grand Kilimanjaro, as if aware of our impending farewell, emerged from the morning mist to wave us a spectacular goodbye. Its snowy peak glistened in full bloom, a majestic sentinel bidding us “see you very soon.” Nearby, a Thick-knee bird posed nonchalantly close to the fence by the Amboseli airstrip, offering a subtle yet perfect parting snapshot of the wild before we boarded our flight. Our little plane was waiting, and soon enough we were soaring above the golden savannah, the sprawling landscapes of Amboseli giving way to the urban mosaic of Nairobi below.
Back in Nairobi, the mood was bittersweet. We were here for our return flight—two long eight-hour flights awaited us before we reached home. But we had made a deliberate choice to fill this last day in Kenya with joy rather than melancholy. We had booked a full day of birdwatching at Nairobi National Park once again, this time with Cisticola Tours and a guide named Simon, whom we had heard glowing things about. They picked us up from Wilson Airport around 10:30 a.m., and after navigating the chaotic Nairobi traffic with practiced ease, we arrived at the park gates just after noon.
Simon greeted us warmly, his enthusiasm contagious. He was a dedicated driver-guide whose love for nature had blossomed late in life but burned brightly. Growing up between Nairobi, the Rift Valley, and Central Kenya, Simon’s passion for birds and wildlife started young, though his career as a guide only began after he serendipitously met the Cisticola Birding Team during a safari at Thomson’s Falls. Captivated by the experience, he had eagerly requested to join as a trainee and quickly found his calling. His deep knowledge and sharp eyes promised an unforgettable day ahead.
Nairobi National Park is a rare jewel—a protected wilderness area just a short drive from the heart of a bustling metropolis. It offers an extraordinary blend of urban proximity and wild nature, making it a must-see stop for city travelers and nature lovers alike. This surprising oasis shelters over 400 recorded bird species, alongside several of Africa’s iconic big game animals, though it notably lacks elephants due to its small size and closeness to urban areas. The park’s diverse habitats—from open grasslands and acacia woodlands to seasonal wetlands and dams—create ideal conditions for a rich variety of birds.
As we drove slowly into the park, the mosaic of habitats unfolded before us. We saw the vivid Lilac-breasted Roller, perched confidently on a bare acacia branch, its electric blues and purples flashing brilliantly in the sunlight. Its flamboyant plumage seemed to perfectly capture the spirit of this place—vibrant, alive, and endlessly captivating. Not far away, the piercing cry of an African Fish Eagle echoed as it soared overhead, a regal silhouette against the clear blue sky. The small lakes and wetlands shimmered with the elegant glide of Egyptian Geese and White-faced Whistling Ducks, while groups of weaver birds and hornbills added both color and sound to the woodland edges.
Birding here was a feast for the senses. We delighted in spotting scarlet-chested and variable sunbirds, their iridescent plumage flashing as they darted among flowering bushes, delicately sipping nectar with their slender, curved bills. The Woodland Kingfisher brightened the air with its striking blue wings and cheerful, repetitive calls. In the dense woodlands, we caught glimpses of the sociable and noisy Arrow-marked Babblers, chattering energetically in their tight-knit groups, often heard long before seen.
Waterbodies attracted an array of species: Egyptian Geese floated gracefully, while White-faced Whistling Ducks called softly from the reeds. Nearby, Spur-winged Lapwings strutted confidently along the shallows, their sharp black and white plumage standing out amid the greenery. One of the most striking sights came when we spotted the Red-collared Widowbirds on the grasslands. Breeding males had transformed into a stunning display of deep black plumage, accented by vivid crimson collars and remarkably long flowing tail feathers. Watching them flutter elegantly over the savanna, tails trailing like ribbons, was a true spectacle—a highlight of the day for any birder.
The grasslands and edges buzzed with life and activity. Weavers busied themselves building nests or foraging, including Speke’s Weaver, Chestnut Weaver, and Baglafecht Weaver, each adding splashes of yellow, brown, and patterned plumage to the scene. Brightly colored Yellow-crowned Bishops and the stately Grosbeak Weaver flitted between branches. Finches and small seed-eaters were everywhere—Purple Grenadiers flashing their purples and reds, Crimson-rumped Waxbills darting through the grass, and Bronze Mannikins in bustling flocks. We also spotted Reichenow’s Seedeaters, Brimstone Canaries, and the ever-animated Cardinal Quelea. Occasionally, we caught sight of the elusive Quailfinch dashing quickly across a path before disappearing into cover, adding a touch of mystery to our day.
Throughout the day, our eBird checklist grew. “This is the most we’ve ever recorded in a single day,” my partner exclaimed—88 species tallied, with almost 90% of them seen on this very outing. It was an incredible personal best, a testament both to the park’s remarkable biodiversity and to Simon’s expert guidance and eagle eyes.
While the birds held our full attention, we couldn’t help but notice a majestic lion resting in the shadows beneath a tree, surrounded by a crowd of safari vehicles. But our mission was clear: to seek out and photograph new migratory, resident, and endemic birds. So, we chose to leave the lion undisturbed, promising ourselves that we’d return to admire the big cats another time.
We moved towards the acacia woodlands and shrublands humming with smaller delights. Speckled Mousebirds clambered playfully through the foliage, their long tails trailing as they flicked about in noisy groups. The secretive White-browed Coucals lurked in thick bushes, their rich brown and chestnut feathers blending perfectly with the undergrowth. Dazzling jewel-toned Little and Cinnamon-chested Bee-eaters darted after insects with expert agility, their vibrant greens and chestnuts catching the light in a kaleidoscope of color.
Rhythmic drumming punctuated the air as we heard the distinctive sounds of Spot-flanked Barbets, White-headed Barbets, and the elusive Mountain Gray Woodpecker working diligently on tree trunks. Spotting some of the more secretive species took real patience and skill; Simon’s eagle eyes found glimpses of Green-backed Camaroptera, Yellow-breasted Apalis, and Tawny-flanked Prinia hidden deep within the branches. Meanwhile, Brown-crowned Tchagras slipped quietly between bushes, avoiding attention. More conspicuous perchers like the sharp-eyed Northern Fiscal and Long-tailed Fiscal maintained vigilant watch over the woodland, their black and white plumage standing out clearly.
Just as we were about to leave the park, Simon suddenly shouted, “Stop! Stop! Stop!” Our driver slammed on the brakes, and we watched in awe as a magnificent black rhino emerged from behind the bushes. It walked calmly along its own path, paralleling our jeep as we crept forward slowly to keep pace. For nearly five minutes, we observed this rare and shy creature, appreciating the privacy and quiet majesty of the encounter. Eventually, it vanished into the thickets, leaving us breathless. We felt truly blessed to witness this intimate moment; even a jeep just two minutes behind us would have missed it entirely.
As the sun dipped lower and the afternoon waned, our incredible day drew to a close. The Cisticola Tours team kindly dropped us off at the famous Carnivore Restaurant to celebrate. Carnivore is legendary for its all-you-can-eat meat buffet, featuring everything from beef, chicken, lamb, and pork, to exotic options like ostrich and crocodile. The atmosphere buzzed with energy as waiters roamed the room, delivering sizzling cuts on skewers directly to the table. It was the perfect way to unwind after an unforgettable day immersed in the wild heart of Nairobi.
Before long, midnight came, and we found ourselves settled on the flight back to Chicago. Tired but exhilarated, we smiled at each other—a very happy and content couple. But not before Simon handed us a farewell gift: a bottle of Kenya Cane rum and some of Kenya’s famed fruity coffee, tokens of our incredible journey and a reminder that the wild spirit of Kenya would always call us back.