Hiking to Oloololo Escarpment and enjoying Elephant herds in Amboseli (Day 5)
It was the day to leave Kichwa Tembo, but our hearts clung to the Mara for just a few more hours. Our flight to Amboseli National Park wasn’t until early afternoon, so we had until 1 p.m. to soak in the last moments of this spectacular corner of Kenya. The morning began in its now-familiar way—our housekeeper, Josh, gently waking us at 5 a.m. with a tray laden with cookies, coffee, and hot chocolate, the steam curling into the cool predawn air. This morning came with an added thrill: the eerie whoops and laughs of hyenas drifting through the darkness. Every night here had been a concert of wild calls, each performance different, and we were utterly enchanted by nature’s nocturnal orchestra.
As always, a Maasai escort walked us through the shadowy paths to the main area where Dennis awaited for our morning safari. Today’s mission had two goals: track down the legendary “Marsh Pride” of lions and visit the famous Mara River crossing points—those very spots where wildebeest hurl themselves into the water during the Great Migration, forging their way from the Maasai Mara in Kenya to the Serengeti in Tanzania.
We didn’t find the Marsh Pride that morning. The big cats remained elusive, perhaps melting into the tall grass as only lions can. But disappointment never had a chance to take root; the Mara is too generous for that. In their place, we found plenty of other treasures—graceful giraffes browsing acacia tops, zebras grazing in the morning light, herds of impalas with watchful eyes, and a rainbow of smaller bird species flitting about in the acacia thickets. By the time we returned to camp, we realized this would be the first—and only—morning we’d actually sit down for a proper breakfast instead of our usual picnic in the bush. It felt almost decadent.
The rest of the morning held a different kind of adventure: a hike up to the Oloololo Escarpment. We met our guides—Saitoshi and an armed ranger—at 10 a.m. for the walk, hoping to spot red-tailed monkeys, bee-eaters, and perhaps a few of the local flycatchers. We hadn’t gone more than ten minutes when we struck gold—two red-tailed monkeys, one of them leaping from tree to tree right in front of us. It’s such a simple, everyday movement in their world, yet to us it was pure magic.
The hike itself was moderate, winding first through open plains before climbing steadily up the escarpment. Along the way, we talked about everything from medicinal plants to the traditions of Kenya’s many tribes—some who have embraced modern life in full, and others, like the Maasai, who still live in close harmony with their ancestral ways. The conversations were as captivating as the scenery, and before we knew it, we were standing at the topmost viewpoint. From there, the Mara stretched out below us like a living tapestry, its golden grasslands dotted with dark shapes of grazing animals.Time has a way of slipping through your fingers when you’re having fun, and the hours vanished. Too soon, it was time to head back, pack up, and brace ourselves for that bittersweet ritual: saying goodbye. Partings are always the hardest part of travel, but telling ourselves “see you again” softened the sting.
Still, our next destination kept our spirits high—Amboseli National Park, the famed Land of Giants. This park is a photographer’s dream, where vast herds of elephants roam against the breathtaking backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro. Despite its smaller size compared to the Mara, Amboseli’s landscapes are wonderfully varied—expansive savannahs, seasonal swamps teeming with birdlife, and stands of acacia where giraffes drift in and out of sight. Over 400 bird species call it home, from dazzling lilac-breasted rollers to elegant egrets and stately crowned cranes. And of course, the park’s reputation for intimate wildlife encounters—elephants so close you can hear their rumbles—makes it unforgettable.
Our flight from Kichwa Tembo to Amboseli was as thrilling as the destinations themselves. The small Mombasa Airways aircraft lifted off from the Mara, offering one last sweeping view of golden plains, meandering rivers, and the faint outlines of distant game. Gradually, the landscape shifted—rolling hills dissolved into vast, arid stretches punctuated by volcanic outcrops. Then came one of the most surprising sights: Lake Natron. Shimmering with pinkish-red tones, the lake seemed otherworldly, its mineral-rich waters mostly lying on the Tanzanian side. From above, we could make out tiny pale dots—flamingos feeding in the shallows.
As we neared Amboseli, we strained our eyes for the snow-capped crown of Kilimanjaro. We had hoped for that iconic postcard moment, but the mountain was shy today, wrapped in a veil of clouds. Below us, though, the view was just as stirring—the park’s swamps, grasslands, and woodlands spread out like a patchwork quilt, dotted with elephants. At about 2 p.m., after a brief stop en route, we landed on Amboseli’s small airstrip.
Before we left the Mara, we’d been told Amboseli would be much drier and that, sadly, we might see elephant carcasses due to a recent harsh dry spell. Thankfully, those warnings didn’t play out. Instead, as the plane descended, we spotted both immense adults and tiny calves moving gracefully across the plains. The sight filled us with joy—it was the perfect welcome.
Our home for the next three nights would be Ol Tukai Lodge, arranged as part of our AndBeyond itinerary. Along with Amboseli Serena Safari Lodge and Elewana Tortilis Camp, it is one of only three lodges located inside the park, allowing guests to be immersed in the wild from the moment they wake until they drift off at night.
Ol Tukai Lodge is an oasis of comfort and charm, set right in the heart of elephant country. The rooms are spacious and tastefully furnished, tucked among acacia trees and lush gardens where vervet monkeys dart about and birdsong is constant. The main hall is a showstopper in itself—a vast space beneath a soaring thatched roof, supported by massive wooden log pillars. The walls are adorned with beautiful African artifacts and traditional masks, creating a warm, authentic atmosphere. Wide verandas and open-air dining areas look out over the wetlands, a favorite grazing ground for Amboseli’s elephants and a haven for hippos and waterbirds.
We were met at the airstrip by Moses and Maya, two of the lodge’s friendly staff. Moses would also be our driver-guide for the next two and a half days—a delightful twist, especially when we learned he had studied ornithology in college. A guide with formal bird knowledge in Amboseli? It felt like the universe had arranged a little gift just for us.
As we drove toward the lodge, the birdlife was already overwhelming—so much so that one of us half-joked, “Should I start my eBird checklist now or wait until the official game drive?” Meanwhile, the other was transfixed by the sight of flamingos—a swirling pink-and-white mass of both greater and lesser species—feeding in the lake shallows. Add to that a few herds of elephants ambling by, and it was already shaping up to be an exceptional day.
After a quick check-in and a moment to freshen up, we were back out for our first Amboseli game drive. Evening in the park is pure magic. The sun’s golden light spilled across the plains, painting every animal and acacia in warm tones. This is the time when Amboseli’s famed elephant herds emerge from the swamps, moving slowly toward their night feeding grounds. They came in small family groups and large gatherings, some so close you could see the wrinkles in their skin and the swish of their tails.
The park’s wetlands mirrored the sky above, their surfaces rippling with the movements of waterbirds—flamingos, pelicans, egrets, herons, and the delicately stepping African jacanas. Moses guided us toward markers #42 and #44, spots known for the classic “elephant with Kilimanjaro backdrop” shot. We waited, cameras ready, but the mountain stubbornly kept her cloudy veil in place. Still, the elephants more than made up for it—dozens of them silhouetted against the glowing horizon.
Back at Ol Tukai, we settled in the lounge with drinks in hand, and that’s when it happened. As the last light of day faded, Kilimanjaro revealed herself—just for a moment—her ice-clad slopes tinged in shades of soft pink. It was as if she had waited for us to return before offering her greeting. We went to bed that night full from a delicious buffet dinner, but fuller still from the magic of the day—a day that began in the wild heart of the Mara and ended beneath the watchful gaze of Africa’s highest peak.
