Museums and Culinary Delights: Mexico City to Puebla (Day2)

Another must eat place in everyone's list that we wanted to explore was Panadería Rosetta, located in the vibrant Roma Norte neighborhood. This bakery has gained a reputation for its artisanal bread, pastries, and charming ambiance. It was a little further from our Airbnb but it being an early Sunday morning we were able to find street parking close by. There was already a long line for “To Go” .The bakery’s interior is elegantly designed with a rustic yet modern feel and the wooden counters and stylish décor create a warm and inviting atmosphere, perfect for enjoying a leisurely breakfast or coffee.The selection of baked goods at Panadería Rosetta is impressive but they frequently run out of their best sellers early in the morning. We indulged in some of their pastries with home made guava jams and chocolate.The almond croissant was another standout, with its flaky layers and rich almond filling. Each pastry was crafted with attention to detail, resulting in delicious and visually appealing treats. To go with our pastries we got a cup of latte and Cafe de olla, which is the Mexican traditional way of making coffee with cinnamon and piloncillo. Overall, Panadería Rosetta is a delightful destination for anyone who loves high-quality baked goods and a refined café experience. The combination of excellent bread, pastries, and a welcoming atmosphere makes it a standout spot in Mexico City.  Right next to Panaderia Rosetta is Constela Café, a charming spot that combines a cozy atmosphere with a passion for high-quality coffee and we couldn’t resist not going in. Constela Café has comfortable seating with the large windows which let in the morning sun and cover everything in a warm color glow creating the perfect ambiance for a pourover , if they can deliver.

They have outside seating as well where you can admire the beautiful canopied streets of Roma Norte neighborhood. The menu at Constela Café features a variety of coffee options, from classic espresso drinks to more elaborate creations. We started with a cortado, which was perfectly balanced with a smooth, velvety texture and then Shay went for a single origin pour-over coffee showcasing the rich flavors of the beans with a clean and nuanced taste of the coffee estate located in Vera Cruz. The café takes great care in sourcing its coffee beans, and it was evident in the quality of the brew. In addition to its excellent coffee, Constela Café offers a small selection of pastries and light bites. We went with a lemon cake to go with our coffees. The café has friendly and knowledgeable staff who were happy to share information about their coffee beans and brewing methods. We also picked up some coffee beans and their unique espresso shot cups.

Next in our list was to go to a museum in Mexico city. As any big city CDMX is full of different types of museums but If we have to visit only one museum it has to be the country’s most iconic cultural institutions—the National Museum of Anthropology. Getting there was not so easy as there was some event going on and you couldn't just go to the parking lot directly as the only entrance shown by google map was closed. Once you drive to the entrance we had some guys holding signs for parking and they take you to the parking lot through a completely different route, but for that they have to wait for at least 5 cars before a person leads you and the rest of the caravan through few miles of roads in the opposite direction before taking a side entrance to the said parking lot. A very different approach to what we are used to back home , but it works so no use changing. From the parking lot it's a few mins walk to the entrance line for security check. If you can avoid Sunday it will probably be less crowded as Mexican Nationals have free access on Sunday’s, a great way to give access to a lot of people to their own national treasures. After paying the entrance fee of 95 pesos per person you enter the main courtyard with a stunning  towering stone umbrella supported by a single column, as a centerpiece. The museum building  itself is a marvel of modern architecture and and we paused there for a moment, soaking in the impressive design before diving into the museum’s vast collection of artifacts broken up inspections based upon different civilizations that have called this part of the world their home.

First of all this museum is huge and even a full day is not enough to look through all exhibits in detail. All three sides of the courtyard ( the 4th side is the entrance and the gift shop) are lined with halls showcasing the different times of Mexican history. The ground floors are where all the Archeology halls are located and the second floor houses the Ethnographic exhibits. It needs a lot of walking and standing on your feet , even though there are a lot of places to sit, it was still too much for Mom , so we chose to visit the ones we were most familiar with and stuck with the exhibits on the ground floor.  If you want to follow the historical timeline then the sequence will be Teotihuacan -The Toltec - Maya - Gulf Coast - Oaxaca - Mexica (Aztec). Surprising Olmecs which predate all of them do not have a separate location are kind spread around.

As we were planning to visit the ancient city of Teotihuacan in this trip we started or visit in Teotihuacan Hall (l#4 ). The exhibit took us back to the great city’s pyramids ,giving us deeper insight into the culture that built the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon, which we had seen last year. As soon as you enter you are greeted with the Disk of Mictlāntēcutli or the Disk of Death , found in the Pyramid of the Sun. But one of the most unforgettable moments of the visit was when we entered the main Hall and saw the reconstruction of the temple of the Quetzalcoatl , decorated with the alternating heads of the serpent god and the Tlaloc, the god of rain. Right next to the statue of Chalchiuhtlicue, from the Pyramid of the moon astonished us with its sheer scale. There are different section showing  the houses of the nobles with numerous murals on the walls from different compounds of the city along with the reconstruction of the mural of the Great Goddess of Teotihuacan with her wide eyes and headdress conveying both power and mystery which was only found at the site of Teotihuacan. All the other exhibits showcasing pottery, jewelry (and whatever gold the Spanish left) and tools give you a hint of what life was like in this massive pre-Columbian city. The scaled city layout just outside in the garden reminds us of the sheer architectural and engineering prowess of this civilization. The thing we liked a lot is how the museum artfully exhibits a combination of original artifacts and replicas of certain structures without misleading.

From there we moved on to the Toltecs (#5) who were the next big civilizations after the Teotihuacan’s downfall. In between these two civilizations there were groups of small city states from Xochicalco, Cacaxtla and Cantone which have some really interesting murals that are showcased before  you reach the gigantic Atlantean statue depicting soldiers from the Toltecs. As mom was getting tired we took a quick break and skipped the in-between civilizations and went towards our 3rd destination,the Mexica (Aztec) Hall (#6), which houses some of the museum’s most famous pieces. The Mexica were primarily a warrior clan with amazing artists who took inspiration from things before them and made it bigger and better. The exhibit is densely packed and the most crowded of them all. As soon as you enter you see the amazing jaguar sculpture of Ocelotlcuauhxicalli and the intricately carved sacrificial altars known as the The Monument of Tizoc. As you go down the steps you are face to face with the intricately carved serpent god Xiuhcoatl to the right and the most famous of all Mexican artifacts the Aztec Sun Stone, or the Stone of the Sun, a massive carved disk that symbolizes the Mexica understanding of time and the universe or just a decorated sacrificial altar. Standing in front of it, you feel a sense of awe at its size and the intricate details that reveal so much about Aztec cosmology and beliefs. To the right we found a scale models of things like Templo Mayor, the prominent Aztec temple (the ruins of which can be visited in Mexico City), and an imagining of the bustling market of Tlatelolco (also in Mexico City). Another unique sculpture is the Earth Goddess Coatlicue, a formidable, surreal and intriguing statue.

As mom was getting tired we decided to take a stroll through the gardens which showcase one of the Olmec heads and the replica of Mictlantecuhtli in El Zapotal from the Totonacs period. We sped through the Oaxaca Hall (#7)  but stopped to gaze upon the Jewels of Monte Albán , intricate pottery and the colorful codecs. We were struck by the delicate craftsmanship of the Mixtec artisans. We again stepped out into the gardens and were greeted with familiar sites ,the replicas of the Mayan ruins with rain god Chaac  taking the center stage. We then entered the main building through the Maya Hall ( #9), where the stone carvings and stucco figures transported us to the mysterious world of the Maya civilization and brought back memories of seeing these ruins in person during our Yucatan trip a few years back. 

The outdoor spaces around the museum offering us a chance to witness and engage with living traditions that connect the past with modern-day practices.One of the most iconic and captivating performances we witnessed was the "Danza de los Voladores" (Dance of the Flyers), a ritual practiced for centuries by the Totonac people of Veracruz. The dance was a sacred ceremony symbolizing fertility and the harmony between the earth and the cosmos. The performance began with the dancers, traditionally dressed in bright, elaborate costumes adorned with feathers and mirrors, as they ascended a 30-meter-tall pole. At the top, one dancer, often referred to as the "caporal," played a flute and a small drum while performing intricate steps on a small platform. Then, the other four dancers launched themselves from the top, tied by ropes to their ankles, and descended gracefully while rotating around the pole in a circular motion. Their descent represented the flight of birds, believed to carry prayers to the gods, and the four cardinal directions of the earth.The "Danza de los Voladores" has been recognized by UNESCO as part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. In addition to the "Voladores" performance, the outdoor spaces of the Anthropology Museum often hosts a variety of other cultural events and displays and as soon as the first performance finished they started a demonstration of the Mayan Dance.Dancers wore elaborate costumes and masks, portraying animals, gods, or mythical beings, with each movement symbolizing important elements of Maya cosmology and life. Accompanied by traditional instruments like drums and flutes, the dances were rhythmic and theatrical, creating an immersive spiritual experience with the help of fire and smoke.

As it was close to lunchtime we went for a quick bite at Churros El Muro. They are on every “CDMX must eat list” and is popular for its legendary churros and has earned a reputation for serving some of the best churros in town. They have branches all over the city but the original one is located in the heart of the city,near the Zocalo and is a favorite among locals and tourists alike, and for good reason. If you are driving and are not used to driving in narrow streets with people all around you , its advisable to take an Uber or use public transport, but if you can muster the courage to drive to the center of the city it is a lot of fun to see a completely different side of Mexico City with all the hustle and bustle of the locals going about their day, a far cry from the quiet and chic neighborhoods of Condesa and Roma.

As soon as we arrived, the irresistible smell of freshly fried churros greeted us. The bustling atmosphere of the stand, with its long line of eager customers, was a testament to its popularity. We ordered the classic churros, coated in cinnamon sugar, crisp on the outside and soft on the inside. We had coffee and hot chocolate with them and the initial bites were a delightful combination of sweetness and texture but subsequent bites kept getting sweeter and sweeter , till it was too sweet to enjoy.So this needs to be tried in moderation. The churros were made to order, which meant they were always hot and fresh and the process of making churros at El Murro is in an open format; and it is quite fun to watch the dough being expertly piped into the hot oil and fried to perfection. Churro El Murro is more than just a place to get a sweet treat—it’s an experience that captures the essence of Mexican street food culture with a very long history to go with it.

Driving out of that frenzied location we started our drive towards Puebla. When we were looking for cities around Mexico city to explore for a day or two , Puebla became our destination very quickly. During our exploration of Puebla’s rich cultural history, we came across the iconic figure of the China Poblana, a symbol that is deeply embedded in the city’s identity and folklore. The most well-known aspect of the China Poblana is her vibrant and beautifully embroidered traditional outfit. The China Poblana dress, characterized by a white embroidered blouse, a colorful, flowing skirt adorned with sequins, and a bright sash, is often seen as a symbol of Mexican identity, particularly during national celebrations like Mexican Independence Day may share a common name but might be a more modern invention. The lesser known legend behind the China Poblana adds an air of intrigue and helpness ( or mystery and romance to people accustomed to cultural appropriation) to this iconic figure. According to popular stories, the China Poblana was a young woman named Mirra or Meera (later Catarina de San Juan), born in northern India ,kidnapped by portuguese pirates, escaped in southern india and went to a Jesuit mission,baptized as Catarina de San Juan, transferred to Manilla and brought to Mexico as a slave in the early 17th century.After being purchased by Captain Miguel de Sosa for his family in Puebla, she became a free woman after his death and also became a devout Christian. She was also married off to a man of Chinese origins for posterity's sake.  Known for her piety and charitable works, she became a beloved figure in the community. Over time, her unique style of dress blending elements of Asian, indigenous, and Spanish clothing—became associated with the city of Puebla.We saw references to the China Poblana throughout the city, from statues in public squares to decorative souvenirs in markets. 

The history behind China Poblana was our main reason to choose the Casona de la China Poblana, even though it does not show up in any top 10 list. The Heritage hotel is in a beautifully restored colonial-era building and was home to Catarina de San Juan the "China Poblana" for which the hotel is named. As we arrived late in the evening we entered through the large wooden door, and were escorted up the stone steps to our second floor guestroom aptly named “Mirra”. This was the only room with two double beds. Our room had a french balcony facing the main cobble stoned street with huge wooden doors. The 20 ft height original ceiling with wooden beams added an extra layer of grandness to the room.After freshening up we had a cup of coffee on the second floor , which is available all throughout the day.The interior has bright terracotta colored stucco walls with the archways trimmed in white. The black wrought iron railing on the four sides of the second floor are covered with overhanging geraniums in talavera  pots, with black wrought lanterns on the walls with decorative supports, which adds to its old world charm. It has an open courtyard with a retractable ceiling ( which was closed as it was raining) and a central courtyard surrounded with greenery and talavera pottery, the main attraction being a big China Poblana ceramic statue  There is a small bar off the courtyard with comfortable seating areas all around in the courtyard. Its central location provides easy access to major attractions like Puebla Cathedral and the Zócalo, making it a perfect base for exploring the city.  As the hotel kitchen closed early, it being a Sunday they suggested Mural de los Poblanos located on the other end of Zocalo, a 10 min walk. As soon as we stepped out we were pleasantly surprised with all the decorations and color full street lighting done for the independence day. The cathedral was also lit up for the special occasion with people enjoying the evening with street food and street music. 

Mural de Los Poblanos is a high end restaurant with vibrant murals decorating the walls of the ground floor, each one depicting the rich history and traditions of the region. The restaurant is renowned for its authentic Poblano cuisine, and we couldn’t wait to try the dishes. We started with some pulque and mezcal from Puebla along with some toasted Chapulines ( grasshoppers) on tortillas. Next course was a plate of chalupas, perfectly crisp tortillas topped with green and red salsas, shredded meat, and queso fresco and a plate of Tacos de chicharron prensado, which is pressed pork rinds in a green sauce . The highlight however was one of the most iconic dishes we experienced during our time in Puebla, Chile en Nogada. We had heard about this famous dish before arriving, but tasting it in its birthplace was something truly special. As soon as we sat down at a traditional restaurant, we knew we had to order it, and it did not disappoint. When the dish arrived, it was as much a feast for the eyes as it was for the taste buds. The chile en nogada is a large poblano pepper, stuffed with a rich mixture of ground meat, fruits like apple, pear, and peach, and a variety of spices. But what truly sets it apart is the walnut ( nogada)  sauce that generously covers the pepper. The dish is served with a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds and fresh parsley, creating a vibrant blend of colors that represent the Mexican flag. This dish is only served from July to Mid September to celebrate the Mexican independence day. As we took our first bite, we were amazed by the unique harmony of flavors. The sweetness of the fruit filling balanced perfectly with the savory meat, while the walnut sauce tied everything together. The crunch of the pomegranate seeds added a delightful contrast. It quickly became one of our favorite culinary experiences of the trip, and we couldn’t help but order it again to try different versions. All of this while trying some other mezcals from the region. We leisurely walked back to our hotel discussing our full day of sightseeing.