Exploring Cholula and Puebla: Churches, Cuisine, and Culture(Day3)

We woke up refreshed in the historical ambiance of  the Casona de la China Poblana and enjoyed the views of the morning hustle and bustle of the cobblestone streets from the juliette balcony as we got ready for our day ahead. The hotel serves its included breakfast in the restaurant in the courtyard below. The blue and white talavera charger plates add an extra layer of elegance to the environment. The included breakfast is a simple yet sumptuous three course starting coffee and a basket of warm and delicious "Conchas," which are traditional Mexican pastry. It is followed by fresh fruits and juice and finished with Chilaquilaes  or eggs your way. I went for Salsa Roja with fried eggs on top and Shay went for the Salsa verde with shredded chicken, and mom got Scrambled eggs Mexican style ( onion, chillies and tomatoes representing the colors of Mexican flag). 

Chilaquiles are a beloved and quintessential breakfast or brunch Mexican dish, though they can be enjoyed at any time of the day. They typically start with crispy tortilla chips that are either fried or baked until crunchy. These chips are then simmered in a flavorful sauce, which can be red (salsa roja) or green (salsa verde), depending on your preference and topped with a variety of garnishes such as crumbled queso fresco, sour cream, chopped onions, fresh cilantro, and avocado slices. A fried egg or shredded chicken can be added for extra protein, making it a hearty and satisfying meal. They’re a fantastic way to use up leftover tortillas and are known for their comforting and homey feel. The combination of crispy and saucy textures, along with the tangy and spicy flavors of the salsa, made chilaquiles one of our  favorite dishes of the trip.We then picked up our car from the nearby parking lot ( included in the stay) and started our drive towards Cholula, a captivating destination just a short drive from Puebla, rich in history, culture, and stunning architecture. The town is known for historical and religious significance, and has a beautiful church at every corner. It is a must-visit for anyone exploring the region.

We started off our church day with one of the most striking and memorable places, the Church of San Francisco Acatepec in the town of San Andrés Cholula. We had heard that this church was a hidden gem, and from the moment we laid eyes on it, we knew why. As we approached the church, its dazzling façade stopped us in our tracks as the entire exterior was covered in brightly colored Talavera tiles, creating a stunning mosaic of intricate patterns and vibrant colors. The reds, blues, yellows, and greens shimmered in the sunlight, making the church look almost like a piece of jewelry nestled in the surrounding landscape. It was unlike any church we had ever seen, and we couldn't resist taking a few moments to simply admire the craftsmanship.Stepping inside, we were greeted by a more understated but equally beautiful interior. The church is smaller, but what it lacked in size, it made up for in detail. The baroque altarpieces were carved with exquisite detail, and the gold accents gave the space a warm, glowing feel. Since it was a monday there was no one in the church and we could enjoy and explore the ornate beauty of the church and its peaceful serene environment. The Church of San Francisco Acatepec is a perfect blend of Puebla’s hispanic history, art, and religious devotion. The use of Talavera tiles on such a sacred building was a reminder of how deeply the region’s artistic traditions are woven into its hispanic identity. We learned that the church dates back to the 18th century and that the unique tilework was done as an offering, with each tile placed by hand, creating a masterpiece that has stood the test of time.

Next in our trip was the Templo de Santa María Tonantzintla straight down the street from the Church of San Francisco Acatepec.This small but extraordinary church, located in the village of Tonantzintla, is a vivid fusion of indigenous and Christian iconography, known as Barroco Indígena or Indigenous Baroque, making it a true masterpiece and was built in the 16th century.The church's simple and unassuming exterior gave little indication of the wonders waiting inside. The façade was simple, with a modest bell tower and adobe walls adorned with a single patterned tile.However, as soon as we stepped through the doors, we were overwhelmed by the explosion of color and intricate detail that filled every inch of the interior. It was almost like walking into a kaleidoscope of art and symbolism.The walls and ceilings were adorned with an extraordinary mix of Catholic and pre-Hispanic elements. Cherubs, saints, and angels were intertwined with native figures, flowers, fruits, birds, and even indigenous gods. The entire space was alive with vibrant detail, a blend of the indigenous beliefs and the Christian teachings brought by the Spanish. The indigenous artisans who crafted the church incorporated their own spiritual beliefs into the design, making the church a powerful symbol of cultural syncretism or rebelling against appropriation ( based upon whom you ask).One of the most striking aspects was the ceiling of the dome, where we saw hundreds of colorful angels with dark skin and indigenous physical features, a visual acknowledgment of the indigenous people's influence on the church's creation. The use of reds, golds, and blues, along with the intricate plasterwork, made the whole space feel radiant.“Tonantzin" was the name of the Mother Earth goddess, often associated with fertility and the earth, which is similar to the attributes for Virgin Mary in the region. The church’s name Santa María Tonantzintla is a blending of the old and new belief systems. The local population had adapted their spirituality to fit within the Christian framework while still honoring their indigenous roots, which you see all over in the small towns and villages in central and south america’s . Unfortunately they don’t allow any photography inside, so you have to visit it to enjoy this unique wonder.

Next in our planned itinerary was the Great Pyramid of Cholula and the adjoining Archaeological Site.The centerpiece of Cholula is the largest pyramid by volume in the world. Its base covers over 18 acres, and it’s partially buried under a layer of earth, which allowed the Spanish to build a church on top known as the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios. The golden domes of this baroque church are visible from miles around, and it provides a striking historical contrast to the ancient pyramid beneath it. As you have to climb to the top for panoramic views of the surrounding landscape offering vistas of the valley and nearby volcanoes and mom was already tired we decided to leave it for another time. 

As it was becoming a very hot day we decided to cool off with a unique ice cream place recommended by a friend, known as  Coyotitla Heladería y Cafetería. They are located a few blocks from Zocalo San Pedro de Cholula and they make all their ice creams , which are more like sorbets made from corn. They had red and blue corn ice cream which have their own unique taste, along with the standard flavors of coffee, chocolate, walnut or peach. But their most unique one was with burnt corn , which is nothing like we have ever tasted. We order two scoops each which they serve on small decorated cazuelas or corn husks with pomegranate to resemble a sundae.

The town itself is charming, with cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and a vibrant and bustling atmosphere. The Zócalo (main square) is lively and surrounded by cafes, shops, and restaurants where you can enjoy local cuisine and relax. There are ample parking paid and not paid street parking spots but driving is time consuming. The paid parking is on an app which you need to load money and then pay it based upon the spot number marked on the sidewalk. As we were close to the local Mercado municipal San Pedro Cholula we decided to stroll through in search of a place to have lunch. Our goal was to have the Tacos árabes the precursor of tacos al pastor in Mexico. Tacos árabes were introduced to Puebla by Lebanese immigrants as they adapted their traditional shawarma (marinated pork cooked on a vertical rotisserie) to local Mexican tastes, resulting in this distinctive taco variant. Unlike traditional Mexican tacos, tacos árabes are served with a larger, thicker tortilla known as pan árabe or pan pita. This bread resembles pita or flatbread and complements the seasoned pork. The best place to enjoy these amazing street food which is all over the town is from a taqueria which serves them by weight, as these are the ones locals go to after a hard day at the Market. Enquiring on the streets with our broken English and “google translator” we found a place called “Taqueria Jireh”. This was a “hole in the wall “ taqueria with limited seating with no frills, just simple tacos with delicious meat and standard topping and extremely cheap. After experiencing two unique foods we decided to head back to Puebla.

We passed by the church of  San Bernardino Tlaxcalancingo, in a small town located just outside Cholula. It's simple, rustic exterior, painted in warm yellow hues and covered in brown patterned tiles, gave us a sense of timelessness. While not as grand or ornate as some of the other churches we have seen that day, the church was another example of blending Catholicism with customs of indigenous tribes. We kept the exploration for another trip.

Our next stop in Puebla was the incredible Uriarte Talavera, one of the most renowned and historic Talavera workshops in the city. As we were already fascinated by Puebla’s tradition of Talavera pottery, learning about Uriarte’s role in preserving and continuing this craft was a must on our itinerary.Founded in 1824, Uriarte Talavera is the oldest continuously operating Talavera workshop in Mexico. Its history spans nearly two centuries, and as soon as we entered the building, we felt the weight of tradition and craftsmanship in the air. The workshop is a testament to the artistry that has been passed down through generations, and we were excited to learn more about the meticulous process behind each Talavera piece.We reached around 5 pm , and their tour hours are from 10 AM to 3 PM, but the people there were happy to give us a quick guided tour regardless.They described how the authentic Talavera follows a very strict process, and Uriarte is one of only nine certified producers in the state of Pebla. Every piece begins with a careful selection of locally sourced clay, which is shaped, fired, and then glazed before being hand-painted. The designs, typically featuring intricate floral patterns, animals, and geometric motifs, are all created using natural pigments, which gives the pottery its distinctive vibrant colors.Over the years, they’ve collaborated with artists and designers to create contemporary pieces that still honor the centuries-old techniques. This balance between tradition and innovation is what keeps Uriarte Talavera relevant and respected, not just in Mexico, but around the world.The showroom was filled with beautiful examples of their work, from plates and vases to tiles and decorative pieces. The colors were bold and bright, with cobalt blue being the most traditional shade used in Talavera. We couldn’t resist picking up more than a few items to take home.

One of the unique sights of the hotel the Casona de la China Poblana is the view of the towers and dome of the church right next to it known as the La Compañía - Templo Expiatorio del Espíritu Santo, where the Mirra’s ( or Catarina de San Juan) remains are buried in a crypt along the wall. The church is worth a visit but the view from the hotel second floor is exquisite , specifically in the glow of the setting sun or at dusk with the lights on. After relaxing on the second floor balcony with a cup of coffee , Shay and I decided to go for a stroll around Zocolo to figure out things for our morning sightseeing with mom. It was decided that the Puebla cathedral and the Callejón de los Sapos were the two must see for the next day.  

We had a reservation for dinner at our hotel's own restaurant, so we all came down to the courtyard for our dinner. We ordered chicken soup with poblano peppers, flores de calabaza ( squash flowers) and champiñónes (mushrooms)  along with Queso asadero ( or mexican melted cheese) with corn tortillas. While waiting they served us chalupas poblanas in red sauce.For the main course we went with their famous mole poblano with chicken and Chile en Nogada covered with egg. The mole poblano was a rich, dark sauce made from a complex blend of chiles, chocolate, and spices and paired with tender chicken, it was an explosion of flavors that encapsulated the culinary heritage of Puebla. The Chile en Nogado on the other hand was slightly different with their Nogada sauce made into a fine paste rather than chunky with the egg adding another layer of texture and flavor. I think we liked the creamy version better. After a hearty dinner and a day spent visiting churches and shopping we went to sleep.