Valdez to Homer via Whittier , the scenic journey (Day 2)
We had used Alaska’s different modes of transport namely roads, seaplanes , bi-planes, helicopters before but noth the Marine Highway system.This almost 6 hr trip provided us an opportunity to embark on the Marine Highway ferry from Valdez to Whittier. For our 7 am departure time , we had to start reporting at 5:30 am at the ferry terminal before slowly boarding the MV Aurora. After stowing the RV in the lower deck we went up to the open deck, greeted by a panorama that stretches from the tranquil waters of Prince William Sound to the rugged peaks of the Chugach Mountains. The upper decks have plastic chairs and some sun beds ( for those rare sunny days) as well as covered corners with heat lamps to keep you warm.
The morning mist hung delicately over the water, creating an ethereal atmosphere as the ferry set sail. Seabirds soar overhead, their calls mingling with the gentle hum of the engines, setting the tone for a journey onwards. As we glided through Prince William Sound, renowned for its pristine beauty and abundant wildlife, we eagerly kept scanning the horizon for signs of marine life. Bald eagles perched majestically on rocky outcrops, their keen eyes scanning the water for fish, while playful Dall's porpoises darted alongside the ferry, their sleek forms cutting through the waves with effortless grace and sea otters went about their morning breakfast. The ferry routes often pass through rich marine habitats and we saw a pod of Orcas swimming in the distant, only identifiable because of their unique dorsal fin, a memorable highlight of the journey, as it was our first Orca sighting , but disheartened as it was quite far in murky conditions.
Another of the highlights of the journey was approaching the Columbia Glacier, with a colossal river of ice that descends dramatically into the sea. The ferry slowed as we navigated through the field of icebergs, some towering like frozen sculptures, others small and translucent, each a testament to the glacier's ceaseless movement. It turned noticeably colder as we passed through but the sight of the glacier's deep blue hues against the backdrop of rugged mountains left us speechless. The journey was not just about the landscapes but also about the stories that unfold along the way. We started conversations with fellow travelers, learning about their experiences in Alaska and sharing recommendations for places to explore. There's a sense of camaraderie aboard the ferry, a shared appreciation for the raw beauty and untamed spirit of Alaska.
As we approached Whittier, the landscape transformed once again, revealing a town nestled at the head of Passage Canal. Whittier is unique in its isolation, accessible primarily through the Anton Anderson Memorial Tunnel—an engineering marvel that doubles as the longest combined vehicle-railroad tunnel in North America. The tunnel cuts through the mountainside, connecting Whittier to the outside world ,adding to the town's allure as a gateway to adventure in the Prince William Sound region.
Disembarking from the ferry, we step onto Whittier's waterfront and immediately feel its charm. Colorful buildings line the harbor, reflecting the town's maritime heritage and welcoming visitors with a sense of warmth and authenticity. As we were all hungry we went to Varly's Swiftwater Seafood Cafe for customary fish and chips and clam chowder. After lunch with coffee in hand from Whittier ocean front cafe we took to exploring Whittier, while keeping an eye on the timing of the opening of the tunnel for the westward journey which is once every hour.
Whittier offers a range of activities for travelers eager to immerse themselves in Alaska's natural beauty. Hiking trails wind through old-growth forests and along the shores of Prince William Sound, offering breathtaking views of glaciers and wildlife. Kayakers paddle through calm waters, navigating among icebergs and keeping an eye out for seals and otters. Fishing charters depart from the harbor, promising encounters with halibut and salmon, while wildlife cruises venture into the Sound, allowing passengers to witness humpback whales breaching and sea lions basking on rocky outcrops.
Our next half of the day was for driving from Whittier to Homer through some of the state's most awe-inspiring landscapes, with rugged beauty that defines the Last Frontier.Emerging on the other side of the tunnel, the landscape opens up to reveal the expansive beauty of the Porter Glacier, a stunning ice formation known for its breathtaking scenery and dynamic landscape. It is part of the larger glacier system in the region and offers opportunities for exploration and study of glacial processes and climate change. The glacier's deep blue ice and rugged surroundings , very close to Anchorage make it a popular destination. The Begich, Boggs Visitor Center for Chugach National Forest , which is America's farthest north national forest , is also located right at the base of the Glacier lagoon. You can go for hikes or take boat tours to explore the glacier and its lagoon.
As we join Highway 1 and continue our journey south, we are greeted with our first views of the turnagain arm of the Cook inlet , famous for Turnagain Arm which experiences tidal fluctuations of up to 30 feet, which is the largest in the USA. As we drive with the majestic views of the glaciers in our rear view mirror we enter the Tern Lake scenic Pull out at the intersection of highway 9 going towards Seward and highway 1 towards homer. We love this place and have always stopped to enjoy the view every time we pass it. The lake normally has some tundra swans ,but this time we were delighted to see a family with two chicks gracefully moving around in the lake. As we keep going deep in the Kenai Peninsula the road winds through dense forests and alongside pristine lakes, where the reflections of towering mountains and glaciers shimmer in the crystal-clear waters. It's a landscape that feels untouched and pristine, invoking a sense of reverence for the natural world.As the journey continues, we drive alongside the kenai river renowned for its world-class fishing opportunities. Twins like Cooper Landing and Soldotna are nestled along the banks of the Kenai River, and is a haven for anglers seeking trophy-sized salmon and trout. The river's turquoise waters meander through lush greenery, offering not only exceptional fishing but also scenic spots for picnics and wildlife watching. Bald eagles soar overhead, their sharp eyes scanning the riverbanks for fish. Continuing south, the landscape transitions as the road skirts the shores of Cook Inlet, offering panoramic views of the vast expanse of water against the backdrop of the Alaska Range. The ever-changing light plays on the surface of the water, casting hues of blue and silver that contrast with the rugged coastline and volcanic peaks in the distance.
Further along the journey, we cross the historical town of Kenai, known for its historic Russian Orthodox Church of the Holy Assumption, a testament to its Russian Roots dating back to the 18th century. From Kenai, the road continues southward through small towns of Clam Gulch and Anchor Point ,the westernmost point of the North American highway system with majestic views of the Alaska range in Lake Clark National Park on the other side of the Cook inlet. We enjoy the scenery along the meandering Sterling Highway only stopping to get gas till the Homer Baycrest Overlook Point. This overlook gives a dramatic view as the road descends towards the bay, revealing expansive vistas of glaciers spilling down from the mountains into the sea on one side and the majestic Alaska Range mountain on the other side of the cook inlet.
Homer, often referred to as the "Halibut Fishing Capital of the World” is nestled on the shores of Kachemak Bay and surrounded by the towering peaks of the Kenai Mountains, known for its artistic spirit, outdoor adventures, and breathtaking scenery. The first sight that greets visitors is the iconic Homer Spit, a 4.5 mile narrow long strip of land jutting into Kachemak Bay. Lined with shops, galleries, and restaurants, the Spit is a hub of activity where fishermen unload their catches, kayakers launch into the bay, and visitors soak in the panoramic views of the surrounding wilderness. The nearby Kachemak Bay State Park and Wilderness Area beckons with its rugged coastline with secluded beaches apt for kayaking exploration and enjoying numerous wilderness hiking trails winding through old-growth forests and alpine meadows, offering encounters with moose, black bears, and eagles soaring overhead.
We browsed through local galleries showcasing works by Alaskan artists, savored our favorite Gelato at Carmen’s while enjoying the evening view of this amazing place all around, though the commercial aspect of the Spit puts a slight dent in the wilderness view.
As we had an early morning Bear watching trip we decided to turn back to boondock somewhere in between Homer and Clam Gulch. But first a quick stop at Anchor Point state park, our favorite eagle watching during low tide for dinner. Unfortunately there were no eagles to be found at this late hour so we decided to move on and stopped at a scenic spot on the sterling highway to have our dinner with a view of Mount Iliamna along with the rest of the Alaska range across the inlet. It was a cloudy day but just before we closed all the curtains , the entire Rv was filled with a golden glow and we were treated with one of the best sunset views. I keep on getting better and better till at midnight we decided to call it a day and went to sleep.
