Anchorage to Valdez , the Scenic Drive(Day1)
Alaska—the last frontier, Round 4. We are back at the place where every turn reveals a new marvel of nature and the same view gives you the feeling of awe every time you see it. Our journey begins in Anchorage, as with most of the visitors after a red eye non stop flight from Chicago which was supposed to land at 4:30 am in the morning but landed 7 hrs. late after multiple stops at Minneapolis ( due to medical emergency ) and Seattle (due to flight crew timeout rules). This time around we decided to take an RV as we had an elderly parent with us and were not planning to do much hiking. With a tank full of gas and RV packed with all the comforts of home needed for the next few days, we set out on one of the most scenic drives in the world: the road from Anchorage to Valdez, 8 hrs late but not worried about night time driving as the sun doesn’t set till 11:30 pm. Anchorage is a bustling city framed by the Chugach Mountains and the vast waters of Cook Inlet, and has all the facilities of any other big city in the USA with an amazing beer, coffee and food scene. Our first stop though was to the Alaska native Medical Center or ANMC Craft Shop which showcases Alaska Native artists' works. This small gift shop is tucked away in the main building of the medical center and is operated by volunteers, its earnings provide income to the Alaska Native community spread across the remote location of the state. The next stop for sustenance at the local favorite Fire island Rustic bakeshop for their delicious sandwiches on home made bread and amazing coffee.
As we started our drive north on Highway 1 , our first stop was planned for Eagle River Nature Center for its wonderful wildlife sighting on the beautiful drive but we had to abandon it due to the flight fiasco. As highway 1, also known as the Glenn Highway turns east you are greeted with breathtaking views of snow-capped peaks with the highway stretched out before us like a ribbon of adventure with Mataniuska river on right meandering through with gusto glistening in the afternoon sun. Our first stop is at the Matanuska River Scenic Overlook , showcasing the huge delta of this glacier fed water before it meets the Knik River. As we keep driving east , we stop next at the Matanuska State Park at mile 101, which is the best place for a free view of the Matanuska Glacier. Few miles ahead you have a small pull-out on the side of the highway, with the closest view of the Matanuska Glacier. To get closer than this you need to pay a $30 entrance fee as it is private land , and if you decide to drive down to the base, you can do the amazing snowmobile pulled sled tour to take you on the actual glacier. Another side trip we had to sacrifice due to our flight delay.
Back on the road, we drove past the town of Glacier View and stopped at one of the many pull outs at the aptly named Sheep Mountain, a spectacular ridge that dominates the Glenn Highway for miles; all the while keeping our eyes peeled for Dall sheep on the south-facing slopes. There are some beautiful lodges in the area that provide sheep watching hiking tours, Helicopter tours or a night's lodging if so desired. As we kept driving, mesmerized with the view at every point we reached the Eureka summit , the highest point on the highway at mile marker 130. The site offers 360 degree views of four mountain ranges: the Chugach Mountains to the south, the Talkeetna Mountains to the north, the Alaska Range to the northeast and the Wrangell Mountains to the east, along with a chance to see Nelchina caribou herd, which call this vast area its home.
Further west as you drive down , you get to miles and miles of small black spruce trees with their shallow roots spread over permafrost, which makes even a 100 year old tree only 9-10 feet tall. The soil above the permafrost melts and freezes, buckling the ground and making the tree get its tipsy look. with hundreds of large and small ponds scattered around both sides of the highway, an apt place to look for swans and waterfowl. Just before the intersection of Glenn and Richardson highway is the town of Glenallen with one of the most spectacular views of Mt Drum , rising straight up from the highway. The town’s strategic location at the intersection of 2 important highways with the town of Tok in the north and Vldez in the south miles away makes it an ideal stop for refueling and taking a break. The mighty Copper river passes by the town making it world renowned for salmon fishing and serves as a fly-in base for many guides and outfitters.
The first scenic pullout on the Richardson highway just outside Glennallen you’ll find some great views of the Copper River and the Wrangell Mountains, without the roads or buildings blocking the majestic view. With Mt. Drum straight in front, Mt. Sanford on the left, and Mt. Wrangell— a massive shield volcano on the right is one of the best views on this drive, if the clouds permit it.Few miles south is the Wrangell-St. Elias National Park Visitor Center, the largest national park in the USA and the 5th largest in the world. Here you can look at the exhibits and walk a small Boreal forest loop with breathtaking views of the Wrangells mountain range and Copper river.From here on the scenery becomes more rugged, with vast stretches of wilderness unfolding in every direction. Every few miles, there's a turnout where you can pull over and take in the panorama of snow-capped peaks and glaciers gleaming in the distance, if you do not pay attention to the Trans-Alaska Pipeline with its numerous Pump stations all along the highway. It's an engineering marvel but puts a slight dent on the untouched wilderness view, though it's covered pretty well in this section.
Soon we start climbing up and reach one of our favorite viewpoints of the road, the Thompson pass. With breathtaking views of the other side of the Chugach Mountains, mostly covered in snow making it one of the famous locations for extreme Alpine skiing , drawing hundreds of people from around the world. There are few pull outs but the ones on the right give you unimpeded views of the alpine tundra crowned with snow capped rugged mountains all around. This is a great place to enjoy one of Alaska’s best views , rain or shine, except with thick fog rolls in as what we got this time makes visibility almost zero.As we get down the pass with amazing views all around we get started seeing the Worthington Glacier. The Worthington Glacier is massive, its icy face towering above the highway. You can take a short drive to the parking lot and hike up to get to the glacier. Walking on glaciers does need special crampons though.
Continuing on, we enter Keystone Canyon, a narrow gorge carved by the Lowe River. On a rainy day , waterfalls cascade down the steep cliffs all around you. Even though the sun was out the thick cloud cover gave the place an eerie look. The first stop was the Bridal Veil Falls which is on the left of the highway , but there is a huge parking spot on the right. This waterfall falls for a huge height straight to the river , but due to its immense height it gets misty and is very quiet which gives you a serene feeling. Few yards down the road is the Horsetail Falls, with a lovely cascade fanning out over the bedrock as it plunges down at higher flows. Right before the town you can take a 15 mins detour to be within touching distance of the gorgeous Valdez Glacier Lake, home to large chunks of floating icebergs with unimpeded views of the snow-capped Chugach Mountains. To get up close and personal to these giant chunks of ice you have to go out in a kayak. Numerous tour companies offer guided tours.
As we approach Valdez, the landscape opens up to reveal a picturesque coastal town nestled at the head of a deep fjord. The town is framed by towering peaks and lush forests, and the waters of Prince William Sound stretch out before us, dotted with islands and glaciers.
Our plan was to dine at the Fat mermaid along Valdez waterfront , but the delay changed it all and we decided to have a leisure RV cooked dinner at the Solomon Gulch Hatchery parking lot, with the hopes of seeing the salmon jump up the river at high tide , but alias the salmons have been drastically reduced this year. We soon found a spot along the road to stop and get a few hours of shut eye before our early morning scheduled Ferry.