Cancun to Río Lagartos and first Mayan Ruin at Ek’Balam (Day 1)
Our journey begins the night before in Cancun, a well-connected airport in the Yucatan. Opting for a late flight from Chicago helped us maximize our visiting time. We arrived 15 minutes late due to a snowstorm but Cancun's new program streamlined immigration and customs, getting us through in just 20-25 minutes. However, our pre-booked full-size automatic car was unavailable, leading to a frantic search for another automatic vehicle big enough to fit our luggage. After negotiating with various rental companies, we settled on Hertz with full coverage. Despite assurances of a 15-minute wait, delays persisted, with a 30-minute wait for a shuttle bus and an hour-long line before finally receiving the car. This rental process delay seemed a common experience at Cancun. We had booked an airport hotel for convenience, intending to depart before sunrise for our next day's adventure.
We set out early from our airport hotel, heading towards Rio Lagartos with a stopover at Ek Balam. We took the fast and comfortable Toll Road 180D, covering about 100 miles in 2.5 hours ,passing through Valladolid at breakfast time. We stopped at Carolin Cacao Cafe & Gelato, opening at 7 am, offered a perfect breakfast stop with delicious food, coffee, and chocolate. We savored a Green omelet and a Vallisoletan Omelette, accompanied by hot chocolate and cafe latte, along with a tempting Pie MaMa (Mango-Passion fruit tart). The cafe's proximity to the town square provids convenient street parking and access to local ATMs and other shops to pick up snacks and drinks.
From Valladolid, a 45-minute drive led us to the well-marked Ek Balam archaeological site, our first Mayan ruins. Ek Balam, a medium-sized site, dates back to the Middle Pre-Classic (700-300 B.C) ,which flourished in the Late Classic period (700-1000 A.D). It features detailed statues and figures crafted with stucco and limestone mortar, a departure from the usual stone carvings found elsewhere. We encountered Sacbe (white roads) for the first time, connecting important cities, some adorned with arches. The term "Sacbe" intriguingly shares its name with the Mayan word for the Milky Way galaxy, inviting contemplation on whether nature influenced construction or vice versa, symbolizing a cycle of life. Ek Balam boasts at least five identified sacbeob, with one leading to an arch. Ceremonial walls alongside these roads, though not defensively significant, likely served decorative purposes, reminiscent of modern-day graffiti expressing sentiments in new cities.
While Ek Balam spans about 10 square miles (16 sq. km), visitors can explore only a small portion, with the central plaza being the highlight. Upon entering, the Oval Palace is on the right, and the Sacbe Arch is on the left. Climbing up the Oval Palace provides a panoramic view of the Mayan ruins, including The Tower (El Torre) to the north and twin temples to the left, with glimpses of the ball court beyond.
The Tower, standing at around 95 feet tall, allows visitors to climb up for a breathtaking view above the forest canopy, reminiscent of the Mayan perspective. The climb is steep but manageable, with heat and humidity posing the main challenges, even in late November.
The tower supposedly serves as the tomb of Ukit-Kan-Lek-Tok and features The Throne (El Torno) room, sculpted with a jaguar-mouth entrance using stucco. Alongside glyphs, the room showcases intricate sculptures and carvings.
Returning via the route behind the twin temples offers a chance to admire Mayan architecture, including the characteristic stone hoops on building corners, often frequented by iguanas. Exiting the building area leads to a forest path lined with vendors selling locally crafted goods, such as intricate wood carvings in red cedar. Outside the site, vendor stalls near the parking area offer additional shopping opportunities. By mid-morning, the heat and humidity become uncomfortable, prompting us to stop for a refreshing coconut water from a vendor before heading to the next destination.
The drive from Ek Balam to Rio Lagartos takes about 1 hour and 15 minutes, offering a scenic transition from tall trees to shrubs in the brackish water and arid landscape. Passing through small towns like Tizimin, we opted to push through to Rio Lagartos for our birding tour. We had booked a afternoon tour with Diego Nunez from Rio Lagartos Adventures, who also runs a lodge with a waterfront restaurant.
After a delicious lunch of fresh octopus and fish, we embarked on our boat tour with Diego's daughter, Andrea Nunez, an accomplished birder. Initially heading towards Las Coloradas, the sky darkened, and a tropical downpour ensued. Seeking shelter in the mangroves, we waited for a break in the rain. Once the rain subsided, Andrea suggested heading towards San Felipe, where we witnessed juvenile Caribbean flamingos against the sunset.
Undeterred by drizzles, we lingered and were rewarded with sunbeams illuminating the pink flamingos. As more boats arrived, triggering a flyout, we ventured towards open waters, spotting reddish egrets, storks, and more until dusk.
Returning to the hotel, we enjoyed a simple yet delightful dinner of "pescado a la plancha." Opting for a night tour on the water, our young guide led us to spot nocturnal birds, including the Yucatan nightjar and owls, along with numerous crocodiles in the murky waters. Pausing at a picnic spot, we glimpsed smaller crocs before calling it a night and returning to the hotel.
Despite the humid rooms, the rest was welcome, aided by the comfort of air conditioning, concluding a day filled with memorable wildlife encounters.