Yucatán Road Trip Itinerary: Our 9-Day Route Through Ruins, Cenotes, Ancient Waterways and Wildlife Areas

Written By Rahul

In the southern end of Mexico lies the Yucatán peninsula consisting of three states of Yucatan, Campeche and Quintana Roo, known for its beach town destinations of Cancun and Tulum along the Riviera Maya Caribbean coastline. But the land is more than a beach destination as it is steeped in rich history with varied landscapes, from  lush green jungles and mangroves to pristine lagoons and cenotes teeming with wildlife and amazing varieties of birds. Whether you would like to explore the iconic archaeological sites like Chichén Itzá and Uxmal with majestic pyramids, intricate carvings, and celestial observatories that reveal the ingenuity of this ancient civilization or the colonial cities of Merida or Valladolid, with its cobblestone streets it has got something for everyone. The unique food evolved from the traditional mayan cuisine that later got mixed with the spanish food style as well the   warmth and hospitality of the Yucatecan people, who welcome visitors with open arms and take pride in sharing their heritage, makes you cherish your time spent there.

Day1 - Ek Balam and Birding in Rio Lagartos

  • Ria maya Lodge and Restaurant - is a family owned business run by Diego Nuñez’s with help from his wife Matildé and his kids Andrea, Diego and Jorge.Diego Nuñez is an experienced and trained bird guide, naturalist and avid fly fisherman who pioneered eco-tourism in Rio Lagartos and since they start their tours right from the room door it makes this lodge an ideal place to stay if you are looking for adventures on the water.

    Hotel Rio Lagartos , close by, will be  a secondary option if you are looking for somewhere where you will spend more time in the rooms.

  • Breakfast- Carolin Cacao Cafe Boutique in Valladolid, a charming cafe with great Mexican food offerings , delicious coffee ,chocolate from artisanal cacao blends from Mexico and fresh fruit juices.

    Lunch, Dinner - Ria Maya Restaurant which is run by Diego’s wife Matildé churns out delicious home style meals with fresh seafood and fish 

  • Valladolid - The spanish era capital city of Yucatan with the beautiful Church of San Pablo and the Valladolid Cathedral. The streets around the central plaza offer many restaurants and shops.

    Ek Balam-is a well-preserved Maya archaeological site ensconced in verdant jungle. Highlighted by the Acropolis pyramid adorned with intricate sculptures and hieroglyphics, it offers visitors a captivating glimpse into ancient Maya civilization, featuring ceremonial platforms, ball courts, and ancient “sacbe” roads.

    Rio Lagartos Afternoon Boat Tour - In the late afternoon glide along the serene lagoons and winding channels, looking for aquatic birds and crocodiles in the Rio Lagartos Mangrove area. As the sun dips enjoy the Flamogo’s coming one by one to roost for the night in the San Felipe side as the Biosphere Reserve comes alive with vibrant hues of orange and pink.

    Rio Lagartos Night Boat Tour- Glide along in the dark and murky waters in pitch darkness only illuminated with your guide's beam light to spot Yucatan nightjar, owls , night herons and lots of crocodiles. Seeing crocodiles at night in the water when they are most active is a slightly chilling experience, as they ooze dominance in the water at night.

  • Rio lagartos is 3-¼ hrs. from Cancun Airport and both Valladolid and the Ek Balam archaeological site each add 15 mins. of drive time.

We started our day early, leaving our Cancun airport hotel before sunrise for Rio Lagartos, with a planned stop at Ek Balam. Our first stop was for breakfast at Carolin Cacao Cafe & Gelato in Valladolid, which opens at 7 am and offers great food, coffee, and chocolate. We parked on the street next to the café and enjoyed a Green Omelet (Mayan spinach, onions, herbs, Oaxaca cheese, pumpkin seeds) and the Vallisoletan Omelet (Vallisoletan sausage with Oaxaca cheese), accompanied by hot chocolate and a cafe latte. Their homemade drinking chocolate bars from Veracruz were a delight, and we couldn't resist ordering a Pie MaMa (Mango-Passion Fruit Tart with mango passion fruit coulis). This stop also allowed us to get some much-needed cash from a local ATM and explore the town square.

The drive from Valladolid to Ek Balam took about 45 minutes and was well-marked. Ek Balam is a medium-sized archaeological site dating back to the Middle Pre-Classic period (700-300 B.C) and flourishing in the Late Classic period (700-1000 A.D). Unlike other sites, Ek Balam features detailed statues and figures built with stucco and limestone mortar. We wandered around by ourselves, exploring the Oval Palace, the Sacbe Arch, the twin temples, and the impressive Tower (El Torre), which offered panoramic views after a steep climb.From Ek Balam, we staretd driving towards to Rio Lagartos, observing the landscape change from tall trees to shrubs and bushes. Upon arrival, we met Diego Nunez of Rio Lagartos Adventures, who, along with his wife, operates a five-room lodge and a waterfront restaurant. After a delicious lunch of fresh octopus and fish, we headed out on a boat tour with Diego's daughter, Andrea Nunez. Initially, we aimed to explore the Las Coloradas section, but a tropical downpour interrupted our plans. Andrea sheltered us in the mangroves until the rain subsided. Undeterred, we resumed our tour, heading toward San Felipe, were we were rewarded with sightings of juvenile Caribbean flamingos and other birds like reddish egrets and storks glowinng in the golden light of the setting sun.

After a satisfying day, we returned to the lodge for a simple dinner of pescado a la plancha and fell in love with Snook. We then opted for a night tour, led by a young guide skilled in spotting nocturnal wildlife, especially crocodiles. This tour provided a thrilling experience, observing crocodiles, Yucatan nightjars, owls, and night herons in their natural habitat. The eerie sight of active crocodiles at night was unforgettable. We returned to our humid room, which the air conditioning soon dried out, allowing us to rest comfortably while reflecting on the wonders of Rio Lagartos.

Day2 - Birding in Rio Lagartos and Chichen Itza

  • Hacienda Chichen Resort is a luxurious spanish villa nestled in large private protected preserve right next to the world famous site of Chichen Itza.This eco-friendly resort offers a unique blend of Maya heritage and modern comfort with spacious accommodations, gourmet dining, and a range of activities including archaeological tours and spa treatments.

  • Breakfast,Lunch- Fresh seafood and fish delicacies made by Ria Maya Restaurant 

    Dinner - Hacienda Chichen Resort has an amazing Farm to Table restaurant which serves traditional mayan food and other international dishes which are all grown in their organic farms surrounding the hotel.

  • Rio Lagartos land tour - the area boasts of 7 different ecosystems and is teeming with bird life which can be explored from the land on a 4x4 vehicle.

    Exploring Cenotes - There are two very  popular cenotes in the Chichen Itza complex called the El cenote Sagrado or the Sacred Cenote and the Cenote Ik Kil. The 2nd one being more popular and photogenic.  Since it was Covid times we decided to skip the Cenotes all together and do an extra birding tour in the afternoon at Rio Lagartos

    Kukulkan Nights or Chichen-Itza Light and Sound Show-Every night , weather permitting, the Pyramid of El Castillo comes to life with dramatic projected lights with images and sounds of the ancient Mayan Complex. It starts with a guided walk through the complex with different buildings illuminated with different lights under a starry sky. The show is in Spanish and the lighting is outdated but it's still an amazing and surreal experience. We missed it due to heavy rain in the evening.

  • Rio Lagartos to Hacienda Chichen is 2-¼ hrs. and the parking lot for the archaeological site is 2 mins away. The Cenotes Ik Kil is 5 mins drive and the Sacred Cenote  is within the main site.

Another early start of the day found us boarding Diego's 4x4, eager to explore the vast expanse Marsh lands of the Rio Lagartos Biosphere Reserve in search of endemic bird species. Diego's thoughtful gesture of bringing fresh coffee awakened our senses, complemented by sightings of Groove-billed Anis and Mot Mots along the way. Spanning over 230 square miles, this protected land encompasses nine diverse ecosystems, including mangroves, coastal dunes, and savannas. Notably, it hosts Mexico's first Ramsar wetland site, recognized for its international importance.

Driving through the reserve we spotted numerous bird species till the sun's heat became too intense for the birds and us humans to be outside. During these few hours we journeyed through five different ecosystems, spotting various avian species like pygmy owls, roadrunners, and Roseate Spoonbills. Despite the desire to linger, we reluctantly returned to the lodge for a quick late breakfast of pescado soup before setting out on the water with Andrea (Diego’s daughter) towards Los Coloradas. As we navigated the water’s of the mangrove canals towards Los Coloradas, we encountered diverse birdlife, including Gray Hawks, Crested Caracara and Peregrine Falcons to name a few . Upon reaching the shallow waters of Los Colorados, we relaxed while watching pelicans and flamingos go by their daily routine. As we wanted to see the Chichen Itza Night show , we had to turn back. Along the return route, we paused to admire new bird species, such as the green heron and crocodiles basking in the sun amidst the mangroves. Arriving back at the lodge we bid farewell to Diego, Andrea, and their family, grateful for the unforgettable experience provided by Rio Lagartos Adventures.Our night's accommodation awaited us at a charming hacienda adjacent to Chichen Itza, boasting a unique blend of Mayan and Spanish colonial architecture ( the rocks from the ruins were used to build the main building by the Spanish). Surrounded by a private Maya Jungle and Nature Reserve, the Hacienda Chichen offers a serene setting with meticulously decorated cottages and a garden-to-table dining experience. Despite missing the night light show at Chichen Itza due to rain, we indulged in a sumptuous dinner featuring Yucatan-style cochinita pibil and chicken in black mole sauce, savoring the flavors influenced by Mayan cuisine.Reflecting on the day's birdwatching adventures, we retired to our beautifully decorated room, content and looking forward to the beauty and diversity of Mexico's natural landscapes.

Day3 - Exploring Chichen Itza and Uxmal

  • The Lodge at Uxmal, nestled amidst lush greenery near the archaeological site of Uxmal, provides a luxurious retreat with its elegant accommodations and panoramic views of the ancient Mayan ruins, offering a unique blend of modern comfort and historical charm.

  • Breakfast,Lunch- Hacienda Chichen Resort has an amazing Farm to Table restaurant which serves traditional mayan food and other international dishes which are all grown in their organic farms surrounding the hotel.

    Dinner - The Lodge at Uxmal has a decent restaurant and bar in a nice setting. Meals are mostly à la carte (sometimes buffet ) but more of international dishes than local cuisines.

    Other options ( though limited) are in the town of Santa Elena 15 mins away.

  • Chichen Itza, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is famed for its Mayan ruins, including the iconic El Castillo pyramid and the Great Ball Court, showcasing the architectural and cultural prowess of the ancient Mayan civilization. The site has lot to explore apart from the usual buildings ( if they are open to public, as lot of restoration work is going on)

    Uxmal, another jewel of Mayan architecture in the Yucatan Peninsula, features stunning structures like the Pyramid of the Magician and the Governor's Palace, showcasing intricate geometric designs and exquisite craftsmanship, offering a glimpse into the sophistication of Mayan culture. It was breathtaking to saw these amazing structures glowing in the setting sun without the crowd

    Ecos de Uxmal or Uxmal Light and Sound Show, every night Uxmal offers a light and sound show with narration in spanish of legends and tales of day to day life in a Mayan village full of magic and mysticism. It was an amazing experience to walk through the archaeological site at night with stars above and the  amazing stone cut designs in projected light with captivating story. If you want to do only one night show let this be the one.

    Izamal, a beautiful and serene city known as the “yellow city” due to its yellow painted walls with artcraft shops all around and the bright yellow painted Convent of St. Anthony of Padua

    Merida,the capital city of Yucatan with its Belle Époque facades and colonial architecture with numerous plazas, museums and restaurants. This is a big city and needs more time to explore.

    We skipped both cities as we wanted to explore Uxmal with the setting sun and without the crowds.

  • Uxmal is 2-½ hrs. drive from Chichen Itza and pass through the outskirts of Merida, going into the city could add 1-3 hrs. extra due to traffic. Izmal adds only ½ hrs to the original travel time.

The Hacienda Chichen Resort is located right next to the archeological site of Chichen Itza and is surrounded by a private 200 Hectares Maya Jungle Reserve, dedicated to wildlife conservation and reforestation. At dawn, we embarked on a bird-watching tour with a guide from our lodge and were excited to spot a pygmy owl, some aracari eating berries, and different colorful parakeets and warbler. After breakfast, which featured a Mayan omelet and French toast, we headed to the Chichen Itza archaeological site, arriving by 8:30am. Despite the early hour, there was a traffic jam, but luckily we secured a parking spot in the main parking lot and proceeded to hire a guide at the gate, unknown to us was the fact that guides expedite entry, which helped us go though quickly.

The main temple of the site, El Castillo has 91 steps on each of its four sides, totaling 365 steps including the top platform, symbolizing the solar year and is also aligned to create a serpent shadow during the equinox. Recent findings revealed it contains two smaller pyramids inside on top of a underground cenote. Our guide also demonstrated to us the unique acoustic design of the temple, where echoes mimic the sacred quetzal bird's warble or how the sound from the ground gets amplified when made at certain positions. These are just a few astronomical references hidden in its geometry which showcases the engineering capabilities of the Ancient Mayan’s. The site also has the largest ball court in the Americas, with intricate carvings depicting the ball game. Our guide gave us some useful information about the Mayan codices, mostly destroyed by conquistadors with the surviving being in European museums, and the sacred Ceiba tree, symbolizing the universe. After our guided tour ended , we explored the complex independently, visiting various structures and taking photos.

After enjoying a relaxing lunch and the Hacienda Chichen resort’s grounds , we started our drive to Uxmal, arriving in later afternoon and went to explore the ruins. Entering the site in the last few hours ensured that there were very few people around and we marvel at its beauty in the setting sun at a leisurely pace. As the site was closing we  experienced the magical site of seeing the sun go down behind the the Pyramid of the Magician. Since we had some time in hand we then visited the Choco Museum which is close by, learning about the history of chocolate and enjoying a Mayan chocolate ceremony. Dinner at our lodge was followed by the "Ecos de Uxmal" light show, recounting the legend of a dwarf wizard king. Though antiquated   lighting systems were used form the 80’s, it was as mesmerizing as the first day due to the unique and beautiful location under a starry sky.

Day4 - Exploring Uxmal and Kabah on Ruta Pucc

  • Hotel Puerta Calakmul, an ecological retreat located at the entrance of the road to Calakmul ruins ( there are no hotels inside the park, yet!). They have 15 cabins designed as mayan huts with ​all the comforts of a regular hotel, surrounded in the natural beauty of the Biosphere nature preserve.

  • Breakfast-the included american breakfast ( can be modified as needed) at the Lodge at Uxmal in an amazing outdoor setting with the view of the Pyramid of the Magician.

    Lunch- we skipped as we had a heavy late breakfast, but you can stop at the town of Campeche on the way to stop at many places to eat.

    Dinner-Hotel Puerta Calakmul has a restaurant on site with ceiling to floor glass windows on three slides which gives you an immersive feeling while you enjoy a mixture of traditional Mexican and fusion menu, using locally available products and ingredients. They keep changing the menu based upon seasonal availability. Must try their honey and chaya ( Mayan miracle plant)  based dishes. They will arrange for tours into Calakmul and other nearby locations as well.

  • Uxmal, stands as a testament to the advanced architectural and artistic achievements of the ancient Maya civilization. Its impressive pyramids, intricate stone carvings, and expansive courtyards offer a glimpse into a rich cultural legacy that thrived over a thousand years ago.

    Ruta Puuc in Mexico's Yucatán Peninsula is renowned for a series of stunning Maya ruins, characterized by intricate stone carvings and majestic architecture. Officially, the Puuc Route consists of the 60-kilometer stretch of road that goes from Uxmal to the Loltún Caves, and it includes the archaeological sites of Kabah , Sayil , Xlapak , and Labná . The Loltún Caves  are also part of this group , but is the furthest away and is only open sporadically. After visiting Uxmal ( the biggest site in this cluster) if you have to visit just one more, let it be Kabah.

    Choco-Story Uxmal, a museum dedicated to chocolate and its historical significance in Mayan culture located near the Uxmal archaeological site. It showcases the ancient traditions of cacao cultivation, preparation techniques, and the cultural importance of chocolate to the Maya civilization with Mayan Chocolate Ceremony (Cha-Chaac) being showcased in regular intervals. The other locations for this are in Valladolid and Playa del Carmen, but the Mayan Chocolate Ceremony is only available in the Uxmal site.

    Kabah is known for its impressive architecture and intricate stone carvings. It features the iconic Palace of the Masks, adorned with hundreds of stone masks of the Maya rain god Chaac along with a set full body stone sculpture ( a rarity) and some door jams carved with historical events with dates , very similar to news articles. 

    The Bat Volcano of Calakmul, is not actually a volcano, but it appears as such when four million bats, made up of eight different species,  leave a deep limestone cave  at the same time for their nightly adventures. The cave is located within the protected Calakmul Biosphere Reserve and takes some time to get to. We missed it as we were late

  • Hotel Puerta Calakmul is 4-¾ hrs from Uxmal and via Campeche will add 30 mins drive time. The archaeological site of Kabah is 20 mins away from Uxmal en route. Driving to Labna  will add another 40-50 mins of detour. Xlapak and Sayil are equally spaced on the way to Labna. The Bat Volcano Cave is 15 mins driving from Hotel Puerta Calakmul.

The Mayaland Lodge at Uxmal, located right next to the archaeological site of Uxmal is surrounded by gardens, and a central pool with tall trees full of birds all around it. We woke at sunrise and, after getting ready, explored the area for birds, but as new birders, we heard many birds but struggled to locate or identify them. After an hour, we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast under a tree canopy overlooking the archaeological site entrance and continued on to visit the site at 8 am when the gate opens. As we retraced our path from the Pyramid of the Magician to the House of the Governor , passing through the Nunnery Quadrangle and the Ball Game or Pok-Ta-Pok court like the the day before our guide helped us enrich our understanding of the site's cultural significance and history at each of the stop points.

Around 11 am, we left the site, packed our bags, and started our drive to Xpujil, near the famous Calakmul site. The 5-hour drive was the longest of the trip but included stops along the Ruta Puuc, a series of archaeological sites featuring distinctive architecture with ornate carvings, elevated palaces, ball courts, and stone arches, showcasing artistic and village life. It starts at Uxmal and ends at Labná, with sites like Kabah, Sayil, and Xlapak in between. Due to time constraints, we stopped only at Kabah, the second most important site. At Kabah, we hired a guide, an artistic wood carver, who helped us explore the hidden treasure of the sites quickly along with helping us understand their significance. First we ascended the steep stairs to see the impressive Codz Poop or Palace of Masks, adorned with stone masks of the rain god Chaac. and continued on to the unique full body human sculptures , which were first of its kind in the region and and carved door jambs depicting historical events with hieroglyphic dates very similar to newspaper articles of modern times. This is a huge site with the east site excavation still going on , which has the the Great Pyramid and a giant arch. This arch was the entrance to the city on the Sacbé, the Mayan highway. Running late, we thanked our guide and resumed our drive to Hotel Puerta Calakmul. We missed the Bat Volcano trip for the evening but checked into our cottage and planned our next day's trip to Calakmul. After dinner, we went to bed early for another early start.

Day5 - Exploring Calakmul

  • Villas Ecotucan in Bacalar offers a serene and eco-friendly retreat nestled within the lush jungle surroundings near the stunning Bacalar Lagoon, with sustainable practices ( only solar powered DC lights and fans) and rustic charm, to reconnect with nature while and exploring the natural beauty of the area. They also have a private jetty in the bacalar lagoon for you to enjoy.

  • Breakfast- included early rise breakfast at Hotel Puerta Calakmul with fresh fruits, juices , coffee and toast.

    Lunch- packed lunch from Hotel Puerta Calakmul, enjoyed in the picnic area at the entrance of the Calakmul archaeological site. 

    Dinner- Finisterre Bacalar, one of many amazing restaurants at the waterfront of Bacalar, but one of very few to be open late till 11 pm. 

  • Calakmul,  is an ancient Mayan city nestled within the dense jungles of the Yucatan Peninsula, boasting impressive ruins and biodiversity as a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Biosphere Reserve. Its towering pyramids and stelae stand testament to its once-thriving civilization, while its lush surroundings offer a haven for diverse flora and fauna. Exploring Calakmul you delve into both the rich history of the Maya and the natural flora and fauna of the tropical rainforest, creating a unique and immersive experience. Best to separate the exploration of the ruins and the natural preserve separately as the late afternoon heat is too intense 

    Balamkú -Becán- Chicanná - Xpuhjil, these mayan ruins are smaller in size but covered with intricate carvings and some even have the original paint still intact. These are dotted along the side of the highway going towards Xpujil from Calakmul. You would need ½ a day separately to cover them but we had to skip as we were running out of time.

    Rio Bec - this is a fascinating set of ruins which are deep in the jungle, south of Xpujil and you would need  a 4x4 or quad to access them along with an experienced guide. This is also a bird watcher's paradise as 50-70 different birds species can be seen here.

    Needed another day to cover the last two places.

  • The drive time to the archaeological site parking lot from the Hotel Puerta Calakmul is 1-½ hrs one way. Villas Ecotucan in Bacalar is around 3 hrs from the hotel and the time to Xpujhil is 55 mins. All the small ruins mentioned ( apart from Rio Bec) fall on this section.  Access to Rio Bec is completely off road via dirt roads.

We began our day early to meet our guide at 5 am for our trip to the Calakmul archaeological site. After our quick sit down breakfast, we drove to the entrance gate, which opens at 6 am. The 60 km (37 miles) drive took 1.5-2 hours. We kept our fingers crossed to see a jaguar cross the road in the wee hours of the morning, but it was not to be.Our first stop for a hike was the "Calakmul Cocodrilos" trail, a 2-mile loop with a 200 ft elevation gain at 27km marker. While we didn't see a jaguar, we enjoyed sightings of Keel Billed Toucan, Collared Aracari, Laughing Falcon, spider and howler monkeys to name a few. Our short walk in tranquil rainforest was mostly undisturbed, with only two other groups around.Next, we stopped at the "Selva Calakmul" trail, a 2.5-mile out-and-back path with a 500 ft elevation gain. Under the dense forest canopy, we saw a family of spider monkeys but fewer birds due to the heat.

We then continued on to the main archaeological site where we had our packed lunch before proceeding to explore the site unfortunately in the afternoon heat and humidity. The Kingdom of Calakmul, which once housed 50,000 people was one of the great empries of the mayan world in the region and was at war with the kingdom of Tikal , which is across the border in Guetamala. The site is doted with numerous pyramids and lots of other partially excavated site, but the highlight is Structure II, the tallest Mayan pyramid at 164 feet with breathtaking views above the forest canopy from the top.Despite the heat, we also climbed Structure I, the second tallest at 131 feet, offering a great view of Structure II. Due to time constraints, we could only explore a portion of this huge archeological site as we had to drive to Bacalar after picking up our luggage. On our way back, we saw a Toucan,a Great Curassow and a Mexican Red deer . Our guide took us to a spot to find the Red Capped Manakin, we heard it siging but unformatnaely could not spot it.But we did smell the musky order of a jaguar nearby but could not spot it. This places needs more than 1 day as there are nearby sites like Balamkú, Becán, Chicanná, and Xpuhjil whcih we had to leave for our future visits. We arrived in Bacalar around 9 pm. and enjoyed seafood and cocktails in the town square before retiring to our cottage.

Day6 - Exploring Bacalar

  • XUXU/XUXU2 Tulum, awesome & quiet Airbnb Penthouse Condo with Private Pool in each balcony, nestled in forest area on the other side of the main road , keeping it away from hustle and bustle of Tulum.

  • Breakfast- included breakfast at Villas Ecotucan in Bacalar with fresh fruits, juices , coffee and a la carte delicious omelets.

    Lunch-  Bar food and drinks at Los Rapidos Bacalar

    Dinner - Mi Burrito Bacalar, while looking for Mr Taco. Both places are good.

  • Los Rapidos Bacalar, is a serene oasis , renowned for its crystal-clear turquoise waters that flow through lush mangroves and ancient stromatolite formations. This natural haven offers a unique blend of tranquility and adventure, perfect for swimming, kayaking, and soaking in the breathtaking scenery. Come early as it gets pretty crowded. You have to pay a fee to access the water and rent kayaks by the hour.

    Bacalar Lagoon Boat Tour, often called the "Lagoon of Seven Colors," is a stunning natural wonder with vibrant, multi-hued waters, ranging from deep blue to turquoise, as a result of varying depths and white sandy bottom. This picturesque lagoon is perfect for swimming, snorkeling, and exploring the surrounding cenotes and mangroves on a sailboat. Sunsets are spectacular so best to have a sunset sail.

    Exploring Cenote Azul which is way bigger that some of the others , but is worth a stop for a swim. No swimming allowed in cenote Azul and cenote Esmeralda.

    Sunrise kayaking on a bacalar lagoon, chances are your waterfront property will have kayaks or paddle boards you can borrow for a sunrise trip or you can go on a paid tour. We skipped as this was our cheat day and we slept till late.

  • Los Rapidos is 25 mins and the Day Tour Bacalar boat dock is 15 mins south of Villas Ecotucan. Bacalar to XUXU Tulum is 3 hrs.

Today was our relaxed, unplanned day. We enjoyed a late breakfast at our eco-friendly cabana at Villas Ecotucan, surrounded by the ocean, gardens, and forests. After breakfast, we explored the property’s trails, spotting our first motmot bird.We then visited “Los Rapidos Bacalar,” a narrow section of the Bacalar Lagoon known for its pristine turquoise waters and stromatolites, ancient microbial reefs. Accessing the water through a beach club ( where you have to pay a fee), we rented our kayak and drifted through the tranquil rapids, surrounded by mangroves. The serene beauty and solitude were a perfect escape from the crowds. After returning our kayak, we walked on the boardwalk along the narrow section of the canal, taking pictures and enjoying the views.

Back at the hotel, we relaxed on our private dock, marveling at the water's changing colors and cooling off with occasional dips and beers. Later, we drove to Bacalar town for our private sunset sailing trip. Despite a heavy rain shower, our captain reassured us, and the weather soon cleared. We sailed the breathtaking lagoon, known for its seven shades of blue, starting with the darkest of blue at Cenote Negro, named for its dark depths and local legend.As the sky cleared, we headed to Canal de los Piratos, a historic canal used by Caribbean pirates. Anchoring in the shallow, light blue waters, we enjoyed our swim. On our return via Isla de los Pájaros, we witnessed a spectacular sunset with clouds resembling the serpent god Kukulkan.After our sailing trip, we drove to Tulum and checked into our Airbnb studio with a jacuzzi on the balcony. We had a quick burrito dinner and prepared for the next day's early morning birding trip. Our day was a perfect blend of relaxation, exploration, and breathtaking natural beauty.

Day7 - Exploring Muyil Ruins and Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve 

  • XUXU/XUXU2 Tulum, awesome & quiet Airbnb Penthouse Condo with Private Pool in each balcony, nestled in forest area on the other side of the main road , keeping it away from hustle and bustle of Tulum.

  • Breakfast & Lunch- small family restaurant Opposite OXXO Muyill with home cooked meals and fresh juice.

    Dinner- Burrito Amor Tulum, Rated #1 in the area for a reason.

    Drinks - El Grifo Tulum

  • The Muyil Ruins, located in the lush Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve, are a significant archaeological site as it connected the trades routes of the sea to the mainland.These ruins, also known as Chunyaxché, date back to around 300 BCE and were among the longest-occupied Mayan sites, renowned for its well-preserved structures, which include temples, platforms, and a notable pyramid called El Castillo. The ruins are less crowded and surrounded by dense vegetation, with a wide variety of flora and fauna calling it their home. 

    The Sian Ka'an Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site is a vast and ecologically diverse region that encompasses a wide array of natural habitats including tropical forests, mangroves, marshes, and coral reefs. The reserve is home to an incredible variety of flora and fauna, with over 300 species of birds, numerous mammals such as jaguars and pumas, and marine life including manatees and sea turtles.One of the reserve's key features is its network of freshwater canals and lagoons, which were used by the ancient Mayans for transportation and trade and can be explored on a boat tour, which includes swimming/floating in the lazy river canal all while experiencing the stunning natural beauty and tranquility of the region. The mayan canals meet the sea at Boca Paila , which can also be accessed by road via a dirt road from the north end.

    Tulum, nestled along Mexico's Riviera Maya, combines natural beauty, ancient history, and a bohemian vibe. Its pristine beaches with white sand and turquoise waters attract sun-seekers, while the Tulum Ruins offer a glimpse into Maya civilization atop cliffs by the Caribbean Sea. The town's eco-conscious culture is evident in boutique hotels, yoga retreats, and farm-to-table restaurants like Hartwood. Nearby cenotes like Gran Cenote provide opportunities for snorkeling and diving in clear waters. Whether relaxing on the beach, exploring ruins, or indulging in local cuisine, Tulum promises an unforgettable experience. We skipped the city as the city generally is overcrowded and extremely busy with traffic being a great hindrance for doing multiple activities. Great place to relax and chill though.

  • XUXU Tulum to Muyill is 25 mins. Burrito Amor and El Grifo are located on on the main highway 10 mins away.

We woke up early to meet our guide, Miguel from MexicoKantours, at 6 am in Muyil. After grabbing coffee and snacks, we began birding around the town of Muyil. With Miguel's help, we identified and photgraphed numerous bird species that are common in this area and after three hours ( which just zipped by), we had breakfast with fried eggs, chorizo, spinach, tacos, and freshly made juices from a local shop, before entering the main archeological site.Muyil, also known as Chunyaxché, is an early Maya site on the Yucatan's eastern side, near the Sian Ka’an Biosphere, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was a crucial trading stop connected to inland cities via the Sacbe, the white road or the Mayan Highway. After entering the site, we starting our explored of the numerous partially excavated pyramids that is on either side of the walkway along with numerous species of birds. We walked through a trail to building #8, known as the “Pink Palace,” a four-level structure with a two-chamber temple which . The dense tree cover provided excellent birding opportunities in this area. We then visited El Castillo, the tallest structure at 59 feet, reminiscent of Tikal's steep-walled pyramids. Excavations of portions of this structure revealed the 'Temple of the Herons' and the 'Temple of the Falcon' so named for the stucco decoration adorning the walls.

Continuing on the Sacbe, we walked through wetlands to the Muyil lagoon boat dock, a great spot for bird watching, though the dim light dues to the dense canopy made photography challenging.After meeting our captain, we crossed the Muyil lagoon, entering the Chunyaxché lagoon through a narrow mangrove-lined canal with sightings of various herons and storks along the way. We docked at a small baordwalk near a small Mayan building called “Xlapak” where we spotted the common Tody flycatcher for the first time. We floated down the lazy river, surrounded by mangroves on both sides and clear blue sky on top of our head and clear turquoise blue water below us.We continued on to Boca Paila where the canals meet the Caribbean Sea, observing manatees, crocodiles, and numerous birds. Very quickly it was time to return and our return trip was fast but enjoyable as we watched the golden sunset over the mangroves and clear blue water. Back at Muyil, we said goodbye to Miguel and returned to our Airbnb where we had local burritos and craft beer on our balcony but not before we stopped at a mezcalero to sample some mezcal.

Day8 - Exploring Coba Ruins and Punta Laguna Reserve  

  • Hilton Mexico City Airport, located inside Terminal 1 of Benito Juarez International Airport, makes it really convenient to maximize your time if you are flying out. You can also get a late check out until 6 pm  ( extra fees) if your flight is at night like ours.

  • Breakfast- some gas station baked goodies and coffee as nothing is open before 7 AM

    Lunch-El Faisán , restaurant serving good food right outside the entrance to the Coba Ruins.

    Dinner - Cancun Airport food

  • The Coba Ruins, another significant and intriguing archaeological site of the ancient Mayan civilization spread over a vast area, with numerous structures interconnected by an extensive network of sacbes, or ancient Mayan roads, the longest of which stretches over 100 kilometers.The main highlight is the Nohoch Mul pyramid, one of the tallest pyramids on the Yucatán Peninsula. Visitors are no longer allowed to climb to the top, but retain a more natural and less manicured appearance, with many of its structures still partially covered by vegetation. The ruins also feature several other noteworthy structures, including ball courts, residential complexes, and stelae—stone slabs inscribed with historical and hieroglyphic texts 

    Punta Laguna, also known as Otoch Ma'ax Yetel Kooh, is a nature reserve and Mayan village located near Coba. The reserve is centered around a picturesque lagoon surrounded by lush jungle, providing a habitat for a wide variety of wildlife. It is particularly famous for its population of spider monkeys and howler monkeys, which can often be seen swinging through the trees. Bird watchers will also appreciate the diversity of avian species, including toucans and parrots. The pristine environment supports an array of flora and fauna, making it an ideal spot for nature walks and wildlife observation. You can canoe on the lagoon, zip-line through the jungle, and explore the reserve's many trails. 

  • XUXU tulum to Coba site is 50 mins drive and Punta Laguna reserve is 20 mins further north. From Punta Laguna to Cancun airport is 1hr 50 mins and a detour via Playa del Carmen will increase 20 mins. The actual drive to the two cities might change a lot based upon traffic.

Our day began early as we picked up our guide from Tulum and drove to the Coba Ruins, about an hour away. Arriving before the site opened at 8 am, we enjoyed birding and the sunrise at Laguna Coba. Coba is a significant Yucatan archaeological site in the region, as it is well connected with other settlements in the region with the ancient Sacbe roads. Discovered in the 1800s, much of Coba remains unexcavated due to dense jungle cover. The site is extensive, with bike and rickshaw rentals available for exploration.

Entering with our telephoto birding lens was challenging due to Mexico's restrictions on professional photography, but we eventually gained access. Th archeaological site is broken down into 4 different groups with each having its unique structures.We first visited the pyramid known as “La Iglesia” or “the Church” in the Coba group, a 72-foot tall structure currently closed for climbing. This area also includes numerous palaces, stelae, and a Ball Court. Next, we opted to explore the quieter Macanxoc group, a walk through shaded Sacbe paths is perfect for birdwatching and spotting spider monkeys. This area, rich in altars and stelae, provided a serene experience.We then moved to the Painted Group, named for its painted stelae and frescoed pyramids. This group features another ball court and the Observatory, a semicircular pyramid representing the Mayan calendar and the start of the 62-mile-long Sacbe 1 road. Our final stop within Coba was the Ixmoja pyramid in the Nohoch Mul site, the tallest pyramid in northern Yucatan at 138 feet, offering excellent birding opportunities en route.After lunch near the site, we drove to Punta Laguna, part of the Otoch Ma’ax Yetel Kooh National Protected Area, home to spider and howler monkeys. Following a group of spider monkeys through the forest, we enjoyed the natural surroundings before heading to Cancun for our evening flight to Mexico City. Despite heavy traffic and sad to have reached the urban sprawl we reached the airport with time to spare after dropping pour car. As soon as we landed we went to our Airport hotel preparing for our final tour the next morning.

Day9 - Exploring Teotihuacan on a unforgettable Hot Air Balloon

  • Back home in Chicago

  • Breakfast - Mexican/international breakfast buffet included in the hot air balloon ride place with live mariachi band

    Snack - Dichoso Cacao ,a chocolate store in Roma Sur in Mexico City

    Lunch - Green Pizza in Roma Norte neighborhood in mexico city

    Drink- El Liquor Store in Roma Norte in Mexico City, to try out different agave spirits

    Dinner- Plane food on the return flight

  • Sunrise Hot air balloon ride over Teotihuacan, offers a unique and breathtaking perspective of this ancient Mesoamerican city. You are treated to panoramic views of the sprawling archaeological site, with its majestic pyramids, expansive plazas, and intricate urban layout coming into full view with the rising sun casting a golden glow all The serene and peaceful flight allows for a deeper appreciation of the scale and grandeur of Teotihuacan, which is difficult to fully grasp from the ground and is a must do.

    Teotihuacan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site close  to Mexico City, is one of the most significant and well-preserved archaeological sites in Mexico. It is also known as the "City of the Gods," , and is renowned for its monumental architecture, particularly the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon, along with the Temple of the Feathered Serpent (Quetzalcoatl), which is adorned with intricate carvings and sculptures depicting the feathered serpent deity. The city's layout reflects careful urban planning, with wide avenues, residential complexes, and numerous temples arranged in a grid-like pattern. It is a huge site with a lot of walking (on level ground) needed to see it all, but has very little shade to protect you from the blazing sun, so come early.

    Mexico City Gastronomy, the city has a lot to offer which needs a separate trip to cover but it is also a gastronomic paradise, and needs to be enjoyed any chance you get. The city offers a rich and diverse culinary scene that reflects the country's extensive cultural heritage and vibrant modern influences. From traditional street food to world-renowned fine dining, the city caters to all tastes and budgets, making it a must-visit destination for food enthusiasts.

  • Hilton Airport hotel is 50 mins away from the hot air balloon take off location but since they pick you up along with other people the ride easily becomes 1-¼ hrs. The archaeological site is 10-15 mins away depending upon the gate you choose to enter from. The neighborhood Roma Norte is 1 hr away and the airport from there is another 40 mins. The city driving time drastically changes depending on the day and time , due to traffic.

Our epic tour of Teotihuacan began with an early wake-up call at 4:30 am. Volare, the hot air balloon company, picked us up promptly at 5 am for a sunrise Hot Air Balloon tour of the ancient site. Once we arrived at the take-off location, we enjoyed quick snacks and coffee before ascending into the sky. The hot air balloon ride was a serene yet thrilling experience, as we soared above the temple complex, the first rays of sunlight illuminated the Pyramid of the Sun, casting a golden glow upon its majestic structure. After a smooth landing on the other side of the site, we were whisked away to enjoy a delicious Mexican buffet breakfast accompanied by lively mariachi music.

Following breakfast, we embarked on a walking tour of Teotihuacan, a UNESCO World Heritage site known for its towering pyramids and expansive city layout. The Avenue of the Dead, lined with vendors selling colorful souvenirs, led us to the Pyramid of the Moon and the Pyramid of the Sun, two iconic landmarks that dominate the landscape. Exploring the vast complex, we marveled at the architectural feats of the ancient city, pondering its significance as a religious and cultural center. We regretted missing out on the Temple of Quetzalcoatl due to lunch plans with friends.After a quick stop for chocolates , lunch, and a visit El Liquor Store for some unique mezcals, we bid farewell to Mexico, with a deep sense of gratitude and a longing to return.

Rahul
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