Exploring Masai Mara and chasing Lion Prides (Day2)
Four fabulous nights to be spent at AndBeyond Kichwa Tembo tented camp was something we both were looking forward to for a long time. The Kichwa Tembo Tented Camp along with its sister the Bateleur camp nestles below the Oloololo Escarpment of the great Kenyan Rift valley, affording spectacular views of Maasai Mara’s game filled plains.
This was officially our first full day of an African safari!Josh, our housekeeper, had already woken us up at 5am with a big smile and a serving of cookies, coffee and hot chocolate. We were already awake because we were too full of excitement and the nocturnal noises by the hyrax also played an instrumental part in our wake up call. It was decided that we would do a picnic style breakfast, so Dennis had already prepared with all the ingredients loaded in the land cruiser jeep. The two of us got settled in with all our camera gear in the front seats while our new friends occupied the raised back seats. A spectacular dawn greeted us when we left the camp at 5.45 am. and started our journey towards the iconic Mara Reserve.
The Maasai Mara Reserve, situated in southwestern Kenya, is celebrated for its stunning landscapes and exceptional wildlife encounters. Spanning roughly 1,500 square kilometers, it serves as a critical extension of the Serengeti ecosystem and is renowned for the Great Migration—a natural spectacle where millions of wildebeest, zebras, and gazelles journey across its sweeping plains in search of fresh grazing. The reserve's rolling savannahs, adorned with acacia trees and intersected by the Mara River, create a breathtaking setting teeming with wildlife, including the iconic Big Five: lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, and rhino. It is also the homeland of the Maasai people, whose vibrant cultural traditions enhance the richness of the visitor experience. Combining dramatic wildlife displays with scenic beauty, the Masai Mara stands as a world-class safari destination and a vital hub for conservation.
Dennis kept his ears glued to the radio and knew exactly where a lion pride was hanging out so he drove us all the way to see them. By the time we got there a queue of several jeeps had already formed and the ranger was ensuring there was no overcrowding. We were told that only 5 vehicles were allowed to go close to the lions (or any big cat in that matter) while others had to wait their turns to see them. We waited for about 15 mins till we were able to get close to them. There was a lion pride eating a very recent buffalo kill. The photographers among us started clicking away with extreme happiness. All four of us were very excited about our first lion sighting. After spending some time with them, we decided to move away and circle back to rejoin the queue, giving people in the other vehicle a chance to see the pride as well. By the time it was our turn again, many of the vehicles had left except two, so we settled in among the pride and enjoyed their company. We suddenly noticed that there were 4 year-old cubs in the pride. They suddenly started following the male lion who had moved away from the kill to walk to a nearby stream to drink. After they had a fulfilling drink, the 4 of them one by one came very close to our jeep and sat in its shadows. At one time, there were 4 cubs surrounding us, so close that the phone camera was enough to take a great picture.. It was definitely a jaw dropping moment for all of us. It was almost 9.45 am and we had literally forgotten our hunger, being so captivated by the lions. So then we decided to pull away from the pride who have had their fill of buffalo and feed our own bellies.
It was almost 9.45 am and we had literally forgotten our hunger, being so captivated by the lions. Dennis pulled up to a picnic tree where he set up shop and began to cook omlettes after setting out pancakes, bacon, sausages, fruit etc. It was a lavish breakfast. While he was cooking, he noticed a cheetah from a distance. With his experience, he said that we did not have to run to the cheetah right away and could wait to finish our meal. When we finally got to the cheetah, we found there were three of them - a mother with two young cubs. But they were kind of hidden in the long grass resting in the shadows. The day was getting hot and the cheetahs had decided to move away into shade which led us to start driving back to Kichwa Tembo for lunch.It was at lunch that Zippy and the chef gave us a wonderful surprise of Kenyan food - Ugali, spinach and kale stir fry and a side of beef curry. It was mouthwateringly delicious and we gobbled it up in no time. Feeling extremely satiated, we returned to our cottages for a quick nap and reminisced about our delightful morning.
It was at lunch that Zippy and the chef gave us a wonderful surprise of Kenyan food - Ugali, spinach and kale stir fry and a side of beef curry. It was mouthwateringly delicious and we gobbled it up in no time. Feeling extremely satiated, we returned to our cottages for a quick nap and reminisced about our delightful morning.
Our friends were not going to join us for the evening safari because they had an earlier pick up next morning since they were scheduled for a balloon ride, so just the two of us met Dennis at 4.30 pm and off we went. Since the evening drive is shorter Dennis suggested that we stay in the Mara Mara North Conservancy. Located in the northern reaches of Kenya’s Maasai Mara region, stands as a leading conservation area dedicated to protecting the natural environment and its wildlife. Spanning about 74,000 hectares, this private conservancy is a haven for an impressive variety of species, including the Big Five—lion, leopard, elephant, buffalo, and rhino—alongside cheetahs, giraffes, and numerous bird species. Its carefully managed, low-density tourism model ensures a minimal environmental footprint while providing an exclusive and immersive safari experience. The conservancy collaborates closely with local Maasai communities, embracing sustainable practices that promote both wildlife preservation and community development. Visitors to Mara North Conservancy are treated to unspoiled landscapes, exceptional game viewing, and a rich cultural experience, making it a standout destination within the iconic Masai Mara ecosystem. As we drove around admiring the vast savannah we came across a small herd of elephants.
We were completely captivated by two elephants that were play-fighting and we didn't notice a pair of subadult male lions sitting and relaxing right there hidden in the tall grass. Impervious to all of this the elephants kept playing and as they got close the lions just got up. One of them wanted to show some bravery and walked towards these elephants , but Lo and behold, he got chased away with elephant-astic annoyance. Would not call it funny but it definitely was a spectacle. All this was happening as the sun went down painting the sky with some glorious colors.On our way back, we stopped for a few minutes to find an elephant who came very close to the road. Enchanted by this beauty and taking photographs, we got a little delayed and so we had to rush our way out of the park.
As we got back to the camp we were delighted to see an evening market setup by the neighbouring Maasai Community craftsman. We quickly kept our gear in the room and looked around and collected some souvenirs. We started of with few rounds of Dawa cocktail.
The Dawa cocktail is one of Kenya’s most famous drinks, often called the country’s signature cocktail. Its name means “medicine” or “magic potion” in Swahili, and it’s said to “cure” whatever ails you—whether that’s a cold or just a long day. The word also means “medicine” in hindi/urdu and probbaly came with the Indian poulation settling in Africa during the British rule.
It’s made with vodka, lime, honey, and sometimes a touch of brown sugar, served over ice. Traditionally, a dawa stick (a wooden muddler) is used to crush the lime and mix in the honey, giving it a refreshing, tangy-sweet flavor. You’ll find it in Nairobi’s rooftop bars, safari lodges, and coastal resorts, often sipped at sunset. To give it a more local flavor the barman uses “Kenya Cane” . It is a popular Kenyan spirit distilled from fermented sugarcane. It’s known for its smooth, slightly sweet taste and is often enjoyed neat, with soda, or in cocktails. First introduced in the 1970s, it has become a staple in Kenyan bars and celebrations, carrying a reputation as both an affordable everyday drink and a nostalgic cultural icon.
More amazing Kenyan food for dinner led an extremely satisfied couple to zzz’s off in no time.