Exploring Kenai Fjords, full day boating tour (Day 4)
A slightly late 6 Am rise saw us get ready for our full day out in the sea, with some quick bites and morning tea we headed off to the Seward Parking lot. It was raining all night and started to drizzle as we parked our RV and paid the fees. All but one ( and a glorious one at that) of our seward sea trips have been drizzling days. We don’t mind cloudy weather as it gives it a moody look , but slow drizzle and heavy fog are the two weather conditions that we do not enjoy as much. After a quick introduction with our captain and another round of coffee and breakfast snacks we loaded up with another party of 3 ( max 6 in the boat allowed) and set our course.
As the boat left the harbor, we stared at the stunning views of the Seward waterfront, dotted with colorful fishing boats and framed by majestic mountains. After a quick safety briefing we discussed the day’s itinerary with our captain and kept our fingers crossed to make it all the way to Northwestern glacier if the weather and the seas permitted. With the engine humming and sea otters floating by we cruised out into Resurrection Bay. Resurrection Bay, with its deep blue waters and towering cliffs, provides a stunning backdrop for outdoor activities and wildlife encounters. The bay stretches approximately 10 miles inland from the Gulf of Alaska, creating a natural haven for a diverse range of marine and terrestrial life. What makes it very popular is the options to embark on a journey through Resurrection Bay, whether by sea plane, boat, kayak, or just hiking, and be greeted by breathtaking vistas and the humbling presence of nature in its purest form.
Since it was a rainy and chilly morning , the kayakers were just getting in the water at Lowell Point and once we passed we saw some harbor seals with pups at the rocky coves in Caine’s head. It was fun watching the pups slide off the rock in water while suckling and then get back up again. From there we spotted some whale spouts and chased them around with a few other boats. The humpback whales have a short dive time of around 7-10 mins and a long dive time of 15 mins and up, and they could swim miles during that time, so it's always fun to predict and chase them around , especially when there are more of them all around you feeding. We chugged along looking for whales to the next outcrop on the coast line called the Callisto head. From here you can see the bear glacier entrance which is mostly covered with a rocky beach apart from a small opening. This unique feature makes the bear glacier lagoon so dramatic as it prevents the big chunks of ice from floating out into the ocean. The lagoon can only be fully experienced with a boat trip inside or from the air. Callisto head provides shelter to birds from the rough seas and you can easily find at least half a dozen species (Bald eagles,Puffins ,Marbled Murrelet,Black-legged Kittiwake,Common Murre,Pelagic Cormorant,Pigeon Guillemot to name a few) in the water and the surrounding coastline.
From there we hugged the coastline to keep us away from the rough seas and reached the other end of the cove known as the Spire Cove, a hidden gem within Resurrection Bay, with spectacular scenery in any weather. As we approach the rugged cliffs that encircle the cove rise dramatically from the sea, creating a sense of isolation and natural splendor. The cove's name is derived from the towering sea tacks that punctuate its skyline. These rocky spires provide a glimpse into the underwater life forms like colorful sea stars hanging onto its walls. From here on the waves get bigger and the sea choppier as you do not have the protection of the islands on the other side ( as rugged island was the last one) and you get the full force of the gulf of Alaska. We hug the coast keeping an eye on water spouts in the horizon and chasing them as soon as we see them to enjoy their wonderful display of its flukes before going in the water. The captain then takes us leisurely through a calmer route known as the Cheval narrows as it is protected from the large waves from the sea by the Cheval Island to get us ready for the open ocean crossing to enter Aialik Bay. It was much calmer than what we anticipated and as soon as we entered the calm waters of the bay, our captain served our lunch which was turkey sandwich uic and chips surrounded by breathtaking views. As the boat continued its journey inwards we made our way through curious groups of sea otters toward the magnificent Aialik Glacier, known for its breathtaking beauty and impressive size. Aialik Glacier is one of the park's crown jewels.
As we crossed Slate island and neared the famous glacier, a sense of awe washed over us. Towering ice walls, some reaching heights of over 300 feet, loomed above, their vibrant blue hues accentuated in the cloudy conditions . The captain skillfully maneuvered the boat through the floating icebergs to provide the best views. As we stopped all engines the captain served hot soup to enjoy in while enjoying the ice actively calving of the face.
As each massive chunk of ice calved off the glacier, crashing into the water with a thunderous roar ,the sound echoed around us, and we felt a rush of adrenaline at the spectacle of nature's raw power. Captain also ensured to stay away from the big ice chunks used by harbor seals to rest. The sound of Glacier calving reminded us of the days when we camped near this very glacier and it lullabies us to sleep with its crackling noise all night long. Soon it was time to turn back as we made our way back through the floating icebergs as our captain collected some century old free ice for the cooler.
As the ocean was calming down our captain decided to take us to the Chiswell islands, the last bit of land from there to the south pole, known for its huge bird population. As we put up some speed leaving Holgate glacier behind us we suddenly saw some fins sticking out of the water and low and behold we had spotted a group of three Fin whales , the second largest of all whales on this planet. These are only distinguishable from Sei whales by their size. Even though they do not have the iconic whale tail dive , it was an amazing sighting. As we reached the Chiswell islands the sheer number of birds just overwhelmed us. The islands are part of the Alaska Maritime National Wildlife Refuge and an important bird sanctuary. Right at the first nook we were greeted with a big group of Stellar sea lions relaxing on the rocky slopes away from the waves. As we explored the islands and its vertical cliffs and coves we were mesmerized by the hundred horned puffins and thousands of black legged kittiwakes nesting. We also spotted Cassin’s auklet and Rhinoceros auklet along with a new lifer , the parakeet auklet. As the day began to wind down, we started our journey back to Seward., stopping when we would see a whale spout. The return voyage offered one last chance to soak in the beauty of Kenai Fjords and an occasional chance to doze off.
After our trip we started our exploration of the beautiful Seward waterfront. We started with the Kenai Fjord National park Visitor Center to get our customary National Park stamps and to look at the wonderful exhibits showcasing local flora and fauna. The waterfront is lined with storefronts for fishing and nature tours each having its own gift stores , worth exploring for souvenirs. Another interesting place to go and watch is the fish cleaning station where you get to see the different catches of the day get cleaned and fileted by expert hands , all the while gulls and eagles flying by to get the free meal of the carcass that gets tossed over. Very soon it was time to look for our nightly camping stop and we drove towards the exit glacier view point to have a last look before heading north.
Exit Glacier, located within Kenai Fjords National Park, offers a stunning glimpse into Alaska's breathtaking natural beauty. Renowned for its accessibility and striking scenery, it is a popular destination for hikers and outdoor enthusiasts. As part of the Harding Icefield, Exit Glacier is known for its vibrant blue ice formations that attract visitors from around the world. Upon reaching the glacier, the sight was nothing short of spectacular. We stood in awe at the Exit Glacier Viewpoint, taking in the crisp air and the sounds of ice calving in the distance as we said goodbye to this amazing place. As we made our way to the Turnagain pass snowmobile parking lot to boondock for the night , we were saddened by the realization that it was our last night in Alaska.
